MalenaMartínez,havededicated
themselvestoMaterInicitiva.Thisis
a researchlaboratorythatworkswith
thecommunitiesinthehighAndes,
theAmazonandacrossPeruto
documentbiodiversity,indigenous
foodknowledge,andtoaffordpeople
fairlycompensatedwork.Monthly
explorationsbya teamof researchers,TASTE AUGUST 2019 111TRAVEL“Forthethirdtime,
Peruwasawarded
‘bestculinary
destination’atthe
WorldTravelAwards”a significant facet of Peru’s economic
recovery and tourism strategy hinged
on celebrating and promoting its vast
and interesting cuisine. Everything
from fat kernels of choclo (maize), to cuy
(guinea pig), ceviche, chupe de cammarones
(river shrimp chowder) and pisco
were presented to the world, and local
culinary schools saw a sharp increase
in admissions and graduate restaurant
placements. In 2015, and for the third
time, Peru was awarded “best culinary
destination” at the World Travel Awards.
Virgilio Martínez (of Central in Lima
and Mil in the mountains at Moray,
site of the famous Incan agricultural
terraces), his wife Pía León (of Kjolle
in Lima), and his sister, research director
Clockwise from top left: Chef Francesca Ferreyros has returned to Lima after many years working abroad; a must-visit cevicheria in Lima; Virgilio Martínez and some of the community
members he works with in the Andes; an octopus dish at Kjolle.scientists and anthropologists have
stemmed from Virgilio’s curiosity
about ecosystems that thrive at
particular altitudes.
Since taking the spotlight on the
World’s 50 Best Top 10 lists, Central’s
menu has thrived on this concept
pioneered by the Incas, who conducted
agricultural experiments in their “test
kitchen” of concentric terraces, each
level with its own microclimate, to
determine the conditions in which
their crops grew best.Virgilio’s work has inspired
Francesca’s generation of chefs. Whereas
many influential Gen X chefs may name
Ferran Adrià as a mentor and talk of