2020-05-01_Lonely_Planet_Traveller

CUT THIS OUT AND TAKE IT WITH YOU

UNDERSTANDTHECITY

TEAR OUT GUIDE

WITH

CONTRIBUTIONS

FROM

ANITA

ISALSKA.

PHOTOGRAPH:

AMIR

MENAHEM

JERUSALEM

IN NUMBERS

DATEOFBIRTH

around

2000 BC

originallya smallJebusite

settlement,in 997BC,King

Davidcapturedthecity

and madeit hiscapital

SIZE

47

sq miles

POPULATION

804,400

34

numberof watch-towers

alongJerusalem’swalls,

builtin 1538

26

numberof wineriesaround

the city

Eating in

Jerusalem

ESSENTIALS... Budget £15–£30 for a mid-range meal; in restaurants, a tip of 10–15 per cent is usually expected

Wellorganisedand

friendly,Sandemans’

freetoursarea great

introductionto theOld

City.Tourstakeplace

threetimesa dayand

mostbeginat Jaa

Gate;lookforthe

guidesin redT-shirts

(newjerusalemtours.com).

ALAYED

2 Hanevi’mSt

Hands-downthebestlamb

kebabsandwichforthemoneyin

Jerusalem.Thefalafeland

hummus,andotherspecialities

likebarbecuechickenwith

saladsandlambwithrice,aren’t

badeither.It’sa bustlingplace

withattentiveservice just outside

DamascusGate.

ABUSHUKRI

63 AlWad(Hagai)St

AbuShukriis so popularthatit’s

spawnedimitatorsaroundthe

city.Thestandardplatterincludes

a bowlof hummustoppedwith

chickpeas,tahini,fuul(stewed

favabeans)or pinenuts– crunchy

veganda basketof pitabread.

Besureto adda sideorder of

falafel.Cashonly.

AZURA

4 HaEshkol,IraqiMarket

Withcomfortfoodslow-cooked

on kerosene burners, and ecient

service,thisTurkish-influenced

kosherrestaurantoRehov

HaEshkolSt nearMahane

YehudaMarketis oneof

Jerusalem’sbest-loved.The

fragranceof goulashand

meatballsis enoughto set

stomachsrumbling,whilethe

signaturedish– auberginestued

withcinnamon,mincedbeefand

pinenuts– is pepperyand filling.

FIRSTSTATION

firststation.co.il

Thisdiningandentertainment

complex,housedin a handsome

19th-centuryrailwaystation,is an

atmosphericplacefora mealor a

fewbeers.Thereareboutiques,

cafésandanice-creamstand,

plusa dozenrestaurants,

includingkoshersteak(Meatand

Eat),Italian(PizzaFiori)and

Asian(Station9) joints.It’s

popularwithfamiliesduringthe

dayandgetslively aer dark.

KADOSH

facebook.com/kadosh1967

Since1967,Kadoshhasbeen

cultivatinganuncannyminiature

Paris,fromtheburnishedcolour

schemeandoutdoorseatingto

theintellectualchit-chatmingling

withFrenchchansonsonthe

soundsystem.Theespressoonice

withvanillais refreshing,and

coee cupsareswappedfor

cocktailfluteswhenthesungoes

down.There’sanimpressive

rangeof pastries,as wellas

breakfastdishesandsoups and

salads(allkosher).

MACHNEYUDA

machneyuda.co.il

Is it NewYorkcomfortfood,

Italianfinediningor haute

cuisine?Thissuperbrestaurant

owned by three of Israel’s most

acclaimedchefsnearMahane

YehudaMarkethasa playful

menu,whichoersCatalan-style

calamari,blacklinguinewithcrab

andgoodold-fashionedsteak

andpotatoes.Theadventurous

shouldtrytheshakshukit,a

dishcombiningsesamepaste,

groundbeef,organmeats,

pickledmango,grilledonions

andspices,toppedwithyoghurt

andpinenuts.Book in advance.

MODERN

modern.co.il

Themainrestaurantat theIsrael

Museumis as swankyas its setting

demands,witha refinedarrayof

dishes:artichokesofrito,stued

ravioliandchickenkadaif(thin

Turkishnoodles)so elaborately

presentedthatit couldgracea

JacksonPollockcanvas.Local

flavoursaregivenanunexpected

twist(Israelitapas,beefand

apricotkebabs),andit’sall

servedwithbread from the oven.

PINATI

hummuspinati.co.il

Whilelocalsswearbythe

hummusservedwithpitaand

piquantgarlic-chillipaste,this

hole-in-the-wall’smainsarealso

worthsampling:moussaka,

schnitzels,beansoupsand

shakshuka(a richegg-and-tomato

dish).Casualdiningand

comfortingkosherfoodarea

winningformula,so arriveearly

for lunch at one of the few tables.

In Jerusalem,mealsaremeant

to beshared,withlittlethought

to decorum.Thetwotentpoles

of IsraeliandArabstreetfood,

falafelandhummus,canbe

foundat everyturn,andusing

seasonallocalingredientsin

cooking goes without saying.

Breakfast

atLandwer

CafeinFirst

Station

Trythe

semolina

cake