94 Jean-Luc Colombo Cornas Les Ruchets 2017
$ 100 This mixes dark currant and blackberry compote
flavors with mouthwatering savory, bay leaf and bramble
notes, imparting an energetic feel through the well-packed
finish, which reveals a long, latent echo of warm cast iron.
Best from 2022 through 2040. 850 cases made, 250 cases
imported.—J.M.
94 Tardieu-Laurent Cornas Vieilles Vignes 2017
$ 82 Bright, ripe and juicy in feel, with a mouthfilling
blast of plum, red currant and blackberry compote flavors
holding sway, delivering light anise, violet and singed ol-
ive wood notes throughout. Rock-solid. Best from 2023
through 2040. 125 cases made, 10 cases imported.—J.M.
94 Alain Voge Cornas Les Vieilles Vignes 2017
$ 85 Ripe and compact, with a coiled-up core of black-
berry and bitter cherry fruit that should unwind fully with
time. Racy iron, savory and plum pit notes on the finish
add cut and length. Lovely purity. Best from 2022 through- 1,100 cases made, 110 cases imported.—J.M.
93 M. Chapoutier Cornas Temenos 2017 $ 68
Ripe, fresh and racy in feel, with a well-detailed beam of
plum, blackberry and anise notes, laced with violet, white
pepper and black olive accents. The sleek finish features
an iron hint vibrating like a tuning fork. Drink now
through 2036. 20 cases imported.—J.M.
93 Jean-Luc Colombo Cornas Terres Brûlées
2017 $ 58 Solidly built, with a cedar and alder frame
inlaid along the edges of the pure plum and cassis core,
while hints of bay leaf, olive and sweet tobacco unwind
slowly through the finish. A late flicker of iron keeps this
grounded. Best from 2021 through 2037. 1,400 cases made,
850 cases imported.—J.M.
93 Domaine Courbis Cornas Les Eygats 2017
$ 75 Very fresh, with a lovely beam of cassis, plum puree
and cherry preserve flavors gliding along. Polished overall,
but hints of singed alder, bramble and olive peek through,
revealing a pleasant underlying minerality. A modern-styled
version that keeps its roots intact. Best from 2021 through - 450 cases made, 50 cases imported.—J.M.
93 Tardieu-Laurent Cornas Coteaux 2017 $ 60
This is well-packed, featuring a mix of dark fig and black
currant fruit melded with sweet tapenade and dark tobacco
notes. A light tarry frame guides the savory-tinted finish.
Best from 2022 through 2037. 250 cases made, 20 cases
imported.—J.M.
FRANCE
Rhône / Other Red92 Domaine Les Pallières Gigondas Terrasse du
Diable 2017 $ 40 Singed cedar and dried garrigue notes
frame a core of gently mulled plum and blackberry fruit,
with a sanguine accent curling around the finish.
Grenache, Mourvèdre and Clairette. Drink now through- 600 cases imported.—J.M.
91 Louis & Cherry Barruol Vinsobres Chateau
de Rouanne 2018 $ 30 Features a core of gently
steeped plum and boysenberry fruit, laced with a mouth-
watering anise note and gilded with sandalwood and vio-
let hints throughout. Grenache, Syrah and Mourvèdre.
Drink now through 2023. 25,000 cases made, 1,500 cases
imported.—J.M.
90 Pierre Amadieu Cairanne Les Hautes Rives
2017 $ 24 Fresh and pure, with a racy beam of black-
berry and black cherry fruit, lined with a graphite note
and backed by hints of black tea and violet. Grenache,
Mourvèdre and Syrah. Drink now through 2022. 3,500
cases made, 500 cases imported.—J.M.
90 Kirkland Signature Gigondas 2017 $ 15 Fresh
and tightly focused, with a mesquite note weaving through
the lightly steeped raspberry and black cherry fruit flavors.
Light sanguine and mineral notes dart through the finish.
Grenache, Syrah and Mourvèdre. Drink now through - 3,000 cases made, 2,175 cases imported.—J.M.
90 Domaine de la Vieille Julienne Côtes du
Rhône Lieu-dit Clavin 2016 $ 35 Features a core of
dark plum and blackberry fruit, lined with licorice and
tobacco notes that fill in on the gutsy finish. Should
stretch out with brief cellaring. Very solid. Grenache,
Syrah, Mourvèdre and Cinsault. Drink now through 2023.
1,200 cases made, 100 cases imported.—J.M.
88 Domaine Clavel Côtes du Rhône-Villages
Chusclan Cordélia 2017 $ 18 Fresh cherry and rasp-
berry puree flavors stream through in this fresh, unadorned
red. Light floral and mineral hints emerge at the very end.
Grenache, Syrah and Carignan. Drink now through 2021.
7,600 cases made, 4,500 cases imported.—J.M.
87 Diffonty & Fils Côtes du Rhône Cuvée du
Vatican Réserve de l’Abbé 2018 $ 17 Friendly cherry
and raspberry fruit leap to the fore in this version, backed
by light violet and garrigue notes through the easy finish.
Grenache and Syrah. Drink now. 8,700 cases made, 3,780
cases imported.—J.M.FRANCE
Rhône / White95 Domaine La Barroche Châteauneuf-du-Pape
White Pure 2017 $ 102 Layered and inviting, with
creamed yellow apple, Cavaillon melon, star fruit and aca-
cia notes layered seamlessly together. Lovely quinine and
sweetened butter details line the seriously long finish.
Clairette. Drink now through 2024. 10 cases imported.—J.M.
95 M. Chapoutier Condrieu Coteau de Chery
2017 $ 196 This offers creamy-textured notes of yellow
apple, white peach, yellow plum and green almond that
are seamlessly entwined and carried by a subtle quinine
accent. The elements are framed by an alluring shortbread
detail on the very long finish. Drink now through 2023.
5 cases imported.—J.M.
94 Domaine La Roquète Châteauneuf-du-Pape
White Clos 2018 $ 58 Very alluring, with creamed
melon, pear and yellow plum fruit flavors, laced with salted
butter hints and caressed by a shortbread note on the long,
lush, verbena-accented finish. Drink now through 2022.
60 cases imported.—J.M.
94 Domaine du Vieux Télégraphe Châteauneuf-
du-Pape White La Crau 2018 $ 86 There’s lots to
like here, with bright honeysuckle, acacia and star fruit
notes leading off, followed quickly by richer yellow ap-
ple, lemon curd and verbena flavors. A subtle shortbread
accent caresses the finish, where a stony hint ripples in
the background. Drink now through 2024. 270 cases
imported.—J.M.
93 M. Chapoutier Condrieu Invitare 2017 $ 100
A ripe and flattering style, with alluring creamed yellow
apple, melon and white peach flavors, gilded with hon-
eysuckle and acacia accents on the finish. A crowd-pleaser.
Drink now through 2021.—J.M.
93 R. Rostaing Condrieu La Bonnette 2018 $ 90
Bright and lively, with exuberant star fruit, yellow apple
and green almond notes that are given definition and fo-
cus by a fresh citrus peel thread throughout. Mineral-edged
finish. Drink now through 2023. 400 cases made.—J.M.
91 Jean-Luc Colombo Côtes du Rhône White
La Redonne 2017 $ 22 Apricot, pear and anise notes
are tightly focused, with flashes of salted butter and
acacia on the finish. Shows good length and definition.
Viognier and Roussanne. Drink now through 2022. 3,500
cases made, 450 cases imported.—J.M.
90 Paul Autard Côtes du Rhône White 2018 $ 17
Bright, with lots of bouncy star fruit, green apple, melon
and white nectarine flavors. Honeysuckle notes drape over
the flattering, fruit-filled finish. Viognier and Grenache
Blanc. Drink now through 2021. 300 cases made, 100
cases imported.—J.M.GERMANY
Mosel94 Clemens Busch Riesling Auslese Mosel
Marienburg Falkenlay 2017 $ 68 375 ml Richly
flavored but maintains elegance, featuring a firm backbone
of acidity and minerally details. Stunning and multilayered,
with new elements emerging with each sip. Slate, apricot
jam, burnt sugar, honeysuckle and kumquat fruit notes are
the most prominent, leading to a long, mineral-laced fin-
ish. Drink now through 2040. 20 cases imported.—A.Z.
94 Immich-Batterieberg Riesling Mosel
Zeppwingert 2017 $ 68 Shows wonderful integration
of acidity, with subtle sweetness, but the crunchy miner-
ality and silky texture make this truly outstanding. Offers
notes of passion fruit and persimmon, as well as floral
hints. Best from 2021 through 2032. 84 cases made.—A.Z.
94 Egon Müller Riesling Spätlese Mosel
Scharzhofberger 2018 $ 236 Moving graciously on
the palate, combining intensity and grace, this spätlese
features orchard and stone fruit and floral aromas and
flavors. Remains ethereal throughout, with powerful, well-
integrated acidity. Mineral elements mark the long finish.
Best from 2022 through 2038. 40 cases imported.—A.Z.
93 Dr. H. Thanisch VDP Riesling Kabinett Mosel
Berncasteler Doctor 2018 $ 47 Very expressive, with
a crunchy texture and a core of quince paste and passion
fruit flavors, showing hints of cream in the background.
Minerally details emerge midpalate and persist on the
long-lasting aftertaste. Quite quaffable, but with good ag-
ing potential. Drink now through 2035. 500 cases made,
56 cases imported.—A.Z.
93 Dr. H. Thanisch VDP Riesling Spätlese Mosel
Berncasteler Doctor 2018 $ 62 A well-delineated,
floral style, with jasmine and bergamot aromas and notes
of lychee and persimmon. Elegant and silky, yet packed
with flavor, featuring vivid acidity. Shows great length
and harmony. Best from 2022 through 2036. 110 cases
made, 28 cases imported.—A.Z.
92 Dr. H. Thanisch VDP Riesling Auslese Mosel
Bernkasteler Badstube 2018 $ 59 Offers pure lime,
pineapple and apricot flavors, supported by a framework of
acidity and a minerally character. Has some weight, but
flows across the palate thanks to the energy and vivacity.
Persistent finish. Best from 2022 through 2037.—A.Z.
91 Clemens Busch Riesling Kabinett Mosel
Marienburg 2018 $ 30 Shows yeasty notes at first,
with accents of jasmine and hops, followed by electric
acidity that fuels the green apple, lemon and nectarine
flavors. Balanced and beautiful in terms of texture, exhib-
iting substance. Smoky details emerge on the well-defined
finish. Best from 2021 through 2033. 550 cases made, 60
cases imported.—A.Z.
91 Reichsgraf von Kesselstatt Riesling Kabinett
Mosel Goldtröpfchen 2018 $ 28 Graceful but very
intense, featuring notes of apricot and papaya, with hints
of spice and elderflower. Shows good complexity and bal-
ance, while the acidity keeps everything intact, imparting
energy and potential. Fine length. Drink now through- 1,000 cases made, 300 cases imported.—A.Z.
91 Reichsgraf von Kesselstatt Riesling Spätlese
Mosel Scharzhofberger 2018 $ 36 Creamy, combin-
ing a richly flavored palate with powerful acidity that cuts
through. Shows flavors of peach, apricot and ripe apple,
delivering savory and spice accents on the back end. Lus-
ciously juicy and subtly long on the finish. Drink now
through 2029. 650 cases made, 28 cases imported.—A.Z.
91 Egon Müller Riesling Mosel Scharzhof 2018
$ 70 This juicy, vivid Riesling offers a charming aroma
up front, with an inviting bouquet. The palate features
slate and lime flavors that pick up a peach note midpal-
ate. Light yet intense, and almost harmonious. Give this
a few more years. Long finish. Best from 2021 through - 250 cases imported.—A.Z.
New Releases: France / Germany104 WINE SPECTATOR • MAY 31, 2020WS053120_buying.indd 104 3/18/20 9:57 PM