92 Mullineux Chenin Blanc Swartland Quartz
Leliefontein 2018 $ 80 This flows across the palate
like velvet, with notes of white chocolate framing the
core of Bosc pear and citrus oil flavors, while floral and
herbal elements emerge on the back end. This is more
subtle, showing attractive minerality and good potential.
Best from 2022 through 2031. 232 cases made, 30 cases
imported.—A.Z.91 Miles Mossop Wines
Saskia Coastal Region 2016
$ 30 An alluring, graceful white,
with a silky texture coating the pal-
ate, while vibrant acidity pierces the
lemon, verbena and yellow plum
flavors. Mineral and hazelnut ac-
cents add to the complexity. A salty
aftertaste lingers. Focused and well-
structured. Chenin Blanc, Clairette
Blanche, Verdelho and Viognier.
Drink now through 2027. 540 cases
made, 60 cases imported.—A.Z.MILES MOSSOP
Owner & Winemaker91 Mullineux Old Vines Swartland White 2018
$ 35 This sports a flattering mouthfeel, with ginger,
orange curd and dried apricot notes. Picks up baking spice
elements midpalate, adding to the complexity, while the
finish shows savory mineral and bitter herb accents.
Balanced and focused. Chenin Blanc, Clairette Blanche,
Grenache Blanc, Viognier and Sémillon. Drink now
through 2028. 2,200 cases made, 300 cases imported.—A.Z.
90 Tania & Vincent Carême Terre Brûlée Le
Blanc Swartland 2019 $ 16 This features a seductive
texture that coats the palate, offering an intriguing min-
eral grip that supports notes of yellow plum and melon at
the core, with spice and floral accents gliding along the
edges. Delivers a long, inviting finish. Drink now through- 3,267 cases imported.—A.Z.
90 Mother Rock Wines Swartland White 2018
$ 25 This white marches to the beat of its own drummer,
with a graceful skin-contact profile, featuring prominent
acidity and light tannins that build a firm structure,
supporting zesty and floral elements. Honeysuckle, tanger-
ine and pear flavors emerge with air. Mouthwatering finish.
For the fans of the style. Chenin Blanc, Viognier, Sémillon
and Grenache Blanc. Drink now. 1,000 cases made, 300
cases imported.—A.Z.
90 Thistle & Weed Chenin Blanc Stellenbosch
Brandnetel 2018 $ 30 A floral white, with notes of
daisy and dandelion, while flavors of white peach emerge
midpalate, showing slight grip. Firmly structured, present-
ing light tannins and lively acidity that create backbone,
letting this extend on the mineral-infused finish. Best
from 2021 through 2028. 200 cases made, 100 cases
imported.—A.Z.
87 Mulderbosch Chenin Blanc Stellenbosch Op
Hout 2019 $ 15 Zesty, on the lighter side, this shows
notes of citrus and green apple, with lemongrass hints in
the background. Moderate length. Drink now. 8,500 cases
made, 2,000 cases imported.—A.Z.
SOUTH AFRICA
Other Red & Rosé94 Mullineux Syrah Swartland Schist Round-
stone 2017 $ 120 Offers lots of energy, with notes of
dark chocolate–covered licorice and blackberry paste, ac-
cented by tobacco and violet details that linger in the
background. Offers firm grip, as the tannins need a bit
more time to integrate, but this could be enjoyed now
with the right food. Drink now through 2035. 774 cases
made, 25 cases imported.—A.Z.93 Mullineux Syrah Swartland Granite 2017
$ 120 Tightly coiled, with an alluring velvety feel, show-
ing notes of raspberry sauce and blackberry juice at the
core. Violet perfume and juniper accents add to the charm
as this persists on the finish. Give this a few more years
to start showing its best. Best from 2022 through 2035.
392 cases made, 25 cases imported.—A.Z.
92 Mullineux Syrah Swartland Iron 2017 $ 120
The firm tannic structure lends plenty of support to the
plum compote and bright cherry flavors, hints of star
anise and accents of clove and floral. The finish is long and
promising. Tight and chewy at the moment, but you can
spot the aging potential by digging deeper. Best from 2023
through 2035. 152 cases made, 10 cases imported.—A.Z.
92 Stark-Condé Syrah Jonkershoek Valley
Three Pines 2017 $ 27 Pure, elegant and charming,
featuring floral notes of violet and hibiscus tea that glide
along, with a core of blueberry and açai berry flavors.
Vibrant acidity flows through, giving this focus and
energy, while well-integrated tannins provide backbone.
Long finish. Drink now through 2029. 1,362 cases made,
250 cases imported.—A.Z.
91 Stark-Condé Syrah Stellenbosch 2017 $ 27
A medium- to full-bodied red, with notes of currant, plum
sauce, mocha and roasted thyme, backed by a firm structure
built from medium tannins and vibrant acidity. Resembles
corduroy in texture, with a smooth feel, showing slight grip
from the tannins. Good range. Best from 2022 through- 1,362 cases made, 250 cases imported.—A.Z.
91 Thistle & Weed Cabernet Franc Stellenbosch
Knapsekêrel 2017 $ 34 This shows varietal typicity,
showing more floral and herbal than vegetal character-
istics. Exhibits lovely integration of the tannins behind
the flavors of dark cherry, blackberry, rooibos tea and
bay leaf. Smoldering tobacco accents mark the persistent
finish. Harmonious. Drink now through 2027. 200 cases
made, 100 cases imported.—A.Z.
90 Mulderbosch Cabernet Franc Stellenbosch
2017 $ 44 A well-made red, with notes of blackberry,
plum and bell pepper mingling at the core, revealing hints
of bay leaf and tobacco in the background. Vibrant, show-
ing light tannins, this is very approachable now. Offers a
juicy, mouthwatering finish. Drink now through 2027.
200 cases made, 50 cases imported.—A.Z.
90 Mullineux Syrah Swartland 2017 $ 40
Elegant and on the lighter side, featuring lively acidity
that fuels the flavors of damson plum and currant, with
dark chocolate accents gliding along. Focused and pure,
showing good drive and range on the finish. Drink now
through 2027. 1,000 cases made, 265 cases imported.—A.Z.
90 Warwick Estate Reserve Simonsberg-
Stellenbosch 2016 $ 70 Full-bodied, with ripe currant
and blackberry fruit, underscored by vibrant acidity and
firm, chewy tannins. This is quite polished, showing a
charming mouthfeel, but needs more time for the tannins
to integrate. Should develop nicely. Cabernet Franc,
Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. Best from 2023 through - 1,100 cases made, 50 cases imported.—A.Z.
88 Ken Forrester Rosé Petit Western Cape 2019
$ 12 This fruity blush shows notes of cherry and rose-
water, with enough acidity for balance. The finish is mod-
erately long and features some spice. A crowd-pleaser.
Drink now. 6,000 cases made, 1,500 cases imported.—A.Z.
SOUTH AFRICA
Other White92 Leeu Passant Chardonnay Stellenbosch 2017
$ 70 A fruity, expressive style, with generous acidity
behind the mirabelle plum, clementine and melon flavors
mingling at the core, while notes of chamomile and gera-
nium echo in the background. Beautifully knit, showing
great harmony and seductive texture. Long finish. Drink
now through 2027. 708 cases made, 50 cases imported.—A.Z.92 Warwick Stellenbosch The White Lady 2017
$ 50 Medium-bodied, with a soft mouthfeel and pro-
nounced acidity imparting energy to the flavors of peach,
candied ginger and green almond, accented by hints of bak-
ing spice. Multilayered, showing good harmony overall and
a finish that invites you back for another sip. Drink now
through 2027. 2,000 cases made, 56 cases imported.—A.Z.
91 Lomond Sauvignon Blanc Cape Agulhas
Pincushion 2017 $ 25 A firm, herb-filled version, with
lots of thyme and sage notes, followed by gooseberry, white
asparagus and lemon zest details. Crunchy midpalate,
featuring a strong mineral element that lingers on the
well-defined finish. Drink now through 2027. 500 cases
made, 500 cases imported.—A.Z.
90 Lomond Sauvignon Blanc Cape Agulhas
Sugarbush 2017 $ 25 Shows great energy and inte-
gration, with flinty notes extending behind the lemon
zest, white peach and green melon notes. Mouthwatering
acidity carries the elements through to a lingering after-
taste. Drink now through 2026. 400 cases made, 400 cases
imported.—A.Z.
88 Buitenverwachting Sauvignon Blanc
Constantia Bayten 2019 $ 15 This leans toward the
exotic side, with notes of papaya and kumquat, accented
by floral and herbal elements. Vibrant acidity in the back-
ground lends balance. Drink now. 20,000 cases made,
1,200 cases imported.—A.Z.
88 Lomond Sauvignon Blanc Cape Agulhas
2019 $ 18 A bit soft, but pretty and easy to drink, with
hints of lime and melon. Herbal elements linger in the
background, while mineral accents emerge on the finish.
Drink now. 3,000 cases made, 500 cases imported.—A.Z.
86 Excelsior Chardonnay Robertson 2019 $ 10
A savory white, with a minerally edge surrounding the
core of orchard and citrus fruit. Vibrant and fresh overall.
Drink now. 1,047 cases imported.—A.Z.
86 Ken Forrester Sauvignon Blanc Stellenbosch
Petit 2019 $ 12 Nicely structured, with round edges,
featuring lively acidity that drives notes of kiwifruit and
lemon pith. Soft yet inviting on the finish. Drink now.
2,000 cases made, 750 cases imported.—A.Z.
86 Warwick Sauvignon Blanc Western Cape The
First Lady 2019 $ 15 A zesty white, with notes of
grapefruit and lemongrass, framed by salty mineral details.
Shows solid intensity. Drink now. 17,000 cases made,
1,600 cases imported.—A.Z.SPAIN
92 Atalayas de Golban Ribera del Duero Torre
de Golbán Reserva 2015 $ 25 This red shows
density and focus. Black cherry and plum flavors mingle
with coffee, loamy earth and spice notes, backed by
well-integrated tannins and firm acidity. Not showy, but
balanced and harmonious. Drink now through 2027. 4,500
cases made, 1,000 cases imported.—T.M.
92 Bodegas Godeval Godello Valdeorras 2018
$ 19 See Smart Buys, page 94.
91 Bodegas Campante Godello Ribeiro a
Telleira 2018 $ 19 This vibrant white delivers bright
flavors of lime, guava and honeydew, backed by zesty acid-
ity and a firm core of minerality. Rich, but remains focused
and graceful. Drink now through 2024. 2,000 cases made,
400 cases imported.—T.M.
91 Mas Blanch I Jové Garnatxa Costers del
Segre Troballa 2016 $ 26 Bright and lively, this red
offers berry and cherry fruit, backed by light tannins and
juicy acidity. Floral and spice notes add interest. Lithe and
energetic, this has focus and length. Drink now through- 8,750 cases made, 2,000 cases imported.—T.M.
New Releases: South Africa / SpainMAY 31, 2020 • WINE SPECTATOR 109WS053120_buying.indd 109 3/18/20 9:57 PM