2020-05-31_Wine_Spectator

(Jacob Rumans) #1
MAY 31, 2020 • WINE SPECTATOR 85

TASTING REPORT | RED BURGUNDY

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tangy Beaune Les Teurons 2017 (92, $65) shows spicy cherry and
currant flavors bolstered by lively acidity.
Beyond Beaune, there are a handful of other areas in the Côte
d’Or delivering solid value. From the Côte de Beaune comes the
rich, spice- and earth-tinged Louis Latour Savigny-lès-Beaune 2017
(90, $35) and the broad, toasty Vincent & Sophie Morey Santenay
Les Hâtes 2017 (90, $36). The vineyards of Marsannay, at the
northern end of the Côte de Nuits near the suburbs of Dijon, are
the source of Louis Latour’s Marsannay 2017 (90, $30), offering
ripe black cherry fruit.
To the south, the Côte Chalonnaise is another good spot to seek
out bargains. Look for Domaine Faiveley’s Mercurey La Fram-
boisière 2017 (93, $41) and Mercurey 2017 (91, $30), Domaine
de Suremain’s Mercurey Clos L’Évêque 2017 (92, $50) and Chofflet-
Valdenaire’s Givry 2017 (90, $32).
At the regional level, there are a few notable examples as well.
Albert Bichot’s Bourgogne-Hautes Côtes de Nuits Les Dames
Huguettes 2017 (90, $25), Domaine Arlaud’s Bourgogne Roncevie
2017 (90, $31) and Bouchard Père & Fils’ Bourgogne Réserve 2017
(90, $20) all offer excellent quality for the price.

T


he winter of 2017 was very cold, an important factor in
eliminating any harmful microbial life in the vineyards. It
warmed up quickly in the spring, with shoots already push-
ing from the vines when temperatures dropped at the end of April,
terrifying growers with another risk of frost. They gathered for three
mornings to burn straw, creating a cloud of smoke to protect the

proportion of premiers crus vineyards and dedicated merchants
making multiple offerings results in a number of high quality reds
at more reasonable prices.
At 93 points, the Bouchard Père & Fils Beaune Les Teurons
Domaine 2017 ($70) offers an elegant and classy style, displaying
cherry, floral, sandalwood and mineral flavors, while Albert
Morot’s Beaune Cent-Vignes 2017 ($53) is precise and pure, with
a wild strawberry note, and its Beaune Aigrots 2017 ($53) shows
black cherry, black currant and violet flavors allied to a dense pro-
file. Morot also hits the mark with its Beaune Teurons 2017 (92,
$56), a bright, elegant and balanced version.
Other 92-pointers include the generous yet vibrant Domaine
Faiveley Beaune Clos de l’Écu 2017 ($70), its dense tannins sug-
gesting a year or two more in the bottle, and the harmonious Do-
maine Jessiaume Beaune Les Cents Vignes 2017 ($50), which boasts
cherry, strawberry and floral flavors. A pair from Domaine Clos de
la Chapelle also delivers the goods while offering a study in con-
trasts: The vibrant Beaune Champs Pimont 2017 (92, $69) features
a darker fruit profile of black cherry and black currant, while the

FRESH AND APPROACHABLE, THE 2017s


ARE DELICIOUS PINOT NOIRS TO BE


ENJOYED WHILE WAITING FOR EARLIER


VINTAGES TO REVEAL ALL THEIR FACETS.


The father-and-daughter team of Eric and Cyrielle Rousseau produce some of Burgundy’s most sought-after reds at their family domaine, Armand Rousseau, in Gevrey-Chambertin.

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