must surely inspire. The centre’s exemplary
presence trickles into surrounding streets
that invite daytime strolls.
Here, fresh coats of paint in bold,
compelling graffiti-art depict noteworthy
neighbourhood characters and the fierce
creatures of a new urban mythology, and,
not least of all, residents’ electric-hued
demands for dignity and empowerment.
You can’t leave unmoved.
Weekends mean great live music on the
Casa Fugaz rooftop, often reggaeton or
hip hop, at low cost to the general public;
tonight, it’s salsa by Mambo Glacial. Even
amid the revelry, talk turns to culture. Gil
Shavit, Monumental Callao’s founder, is in
the crowd, alongside an imposing posse of
young musicians and rappers — guys who
grew up in nearby, warring barrios but have
buried the hatchet for music’s sake and are
now collaborating at an on-site recording
studio. Talent and a chance at stardom
have electrified their relationships. Both
the candid Shavit (a self-professed “not-
squeaky-clean” veteran of Lima’s high-end
real estate racket) and band members (who
perform under stage names including
Silencio, Jey Army and Salsa) surprise mewith their spirit and sentimentality.
“I don’t care how successful you are,” the
founder declares, apropos of life lessons.
“You have to have a heart, have to want
to change things, have to love.” Fugaz
administrative assistant Fabiola Rentería
grew up poor, just a few blocks away. She
has her share of neighbourhood horror
stories but affirms the centre’s influence
“taught us to show our dignity and work for
our own successes”.
Back to the gig: what the headliners
lack in polish (the lead singer is fond of
from-the-bottle slugs of rum) they make up
for in raw power: some 15 youths blasting
horns, drums and rhythm, plus another
singer — a master of maracas and hypnotic
fancy dance. Fans, friends and visitors
come together from all stations. From
the roof’s edge, I take in the terrible,
fabulous city, in widescreen, from the
old Centro to the modern industrial port,
Pacific beaches to Callao’s crumbling
belle époque. Lima’s perennial fog-veil
blurs a million lights, on shore and at sea;
candy-pink fireworks explode from
an anonymous quarter, no special
occasion required.INSIDER TIPS
Uber in Lima is efficient but
quickly grows expensive. If
possible, organise days around a
single neighbourhood’s must-
sees and -dos; travelling by bus
between Barranco, Miraflores and
the Centro is nearly always faster
than by car.
Peruvians may be a wee bit formal
as first-nighters, but when you
find a restaurant or tavern you
really like, visit more than once.
You’ll be a regular before you
know it.
Changing perception
// “The majority of
North Americans
visiting Peru ... fly
direct to Lima, tour
Cuzco, visit the ruins
and return straight
home, not believing that
anything else is worth
seeing.” Ernesto ‘Che’
Guevara
118 nationalgeographic.co.uk/travel
LIMA