IN LIMA
24 hours
8AM
PARQUE EL OLIVAR
Spanish colonists laid out olive groves that
still flourish in San Isidro’s beloved and
tranquil public park. In addition to the trees
— which merit your sincere admiration
— El Olivar is great for jogging, strolling or
just plain meditation. Lima’s misty climate
is part of the fun, swathing specimens in
romance, tempting you to stray. All around
lies a gracious, old-money neighbourhood
and its swank, pseudo-baronial architecture.9AM
SURQUILLO MARKET
Across a hellacious expressway from
Miraflores (once an Inca road to the
sea) lies this traditional market.
A scrappy, much-loved, happy hunting
ground for top restaurateurs, it’s filled
with tropical produce you’ve got to try,
plus head-still-on butchery. Vociferous
lady fishmongers tend counters at its
rear, serving up half-a-dozen ceviche
varieties plus yummy fillets cooked
as you like them; generous portions
of off-colour humour and questions
about your foreign provenance served
on the side.11AM
PACHACAMAC
The 40-minute trip south from Barranco is
worth the hassle to reach the Pachacamac
archaeological site: the ruins of a city
variously occupied by Lima, Wuri, Ychma
and Inca peoples after AD 200. Traditionally
home to an oracle, it attracted pilgrims from
all over the Andean region and reached its
zenith just before the Spaniards hit in 1533.
Remains from stunning courts, palaces
and pyramids attest to antique greatness
and punctuate the now-silent, otherworldly
desert surrounding it. pachacamac.cultura.pe12PM
CHIFA WA LOK
Start out before lunch and gird your loins
for a dive deep into Lima’s Barrio Chino, a
frenetic and congested Chinatown. Sweat not
the queue — tables turn fast — then settle in
for mass portions of the Chinese comforts
locals crave, especially much-adored chaufa
fried rice. Or slog through the bible-like menu
for every possible Sino-Peruvian veggie, pork,
beef, chicken, duck or seafood iteration. Good
local beer is available, but almost everyone
will be drinking a sugar-shock, sunshine-
yellow Inca Kola. walok.com.peFROM LEFT: Plaza de
Armas, Centro Historico;
one of many simple
eateries at Surquillo
Market; ceviche at
Surquillo Market, which
also sells a dazzling array
of fruit and vegetables,
dry goods, meat, poultry
and spices
May/Jun 2020 119LIMA