HOW TO USE THIS GUIDE 7

4

Street-by-Street Map
This gives a bird’s-eye
view of interesting and
important parts of each
sightseeing area.

A suggested route takes in some

of the area’s most fascinating

and attractive streets.

Numbers correspond to each

sight’s position on the country

map and its place in the chapter.

A Visitors’ Checklist gives all

the practical information

needed to plan one’s visit.

6

Major Sights
Historic buildings are
dissected to reveal their interiors,
while muse ums have colour-
coded floor plans to help one find
the most important exhibits.

Stars indicate the features

that no visitor should miss.

5

Detailed Information

Cities, towns and other

sights are described individ-

ually. Entries appear in the

same order as the num bering

on the country map.

7

Practical Information

This section covers topics

such as visas, security, travel,

shopping and entertainment.

The larger countries are

covered in greater detail.

Climate charts are provided for

each country.

Directory boxes give contact

information for the services and

venues mentioned in the text.

Street-by-Street: Ljubljana

Old Town

Located between the medieval castle and the leafy banks of the Ljubljanica river, Ljubljana’s

Old Town contains one of the best-preserved ensembles of Baroque buildings in South Eastern

Europe. Arcaded 18th-century houses, domed churches and fountain-studded piazzas add to its

elegant character. Narrow cobbled alleys such as Stari trg and Mestni trg, lined these days with

swanky cafés and upmarket shops, provide a vibrant introduction to the Slovene capital.

420 SOUTH EASTERN EUROPE LJUBLJANA 421

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp446–7 and pp448–

KEY Suggested route

STAR SIGHTS

. Market
.. Ljubljana Castle`Ljubljanica Riverbank

Fountain of the Three Rivers of Carniola

Completed in 1751, Francesco Robba’s Fountain of the Three

Rivers symbol izes the three main rivers of Slovenia.

. The east bank of the river is lined with willow trees, Ljubljanica Riverbank
orange- and red-roofed townhouses and fabulous terrace cafés and restaurants.

The Triple Bridgewas designed for pedestrians by (Tromostovje)

Jože Plečnik in 1932 as part of the reno vation of the riverbank area.

.Ljubljana’s lively outdoor market is Market

known for its fresh herbs and dried mushrooms alongside every kind of

local produce 3

St Nicholas’s CathedralThe cathedral’s bronze doors,

decorated with scenes from the history of Christianity in

Slovenia, were created in 1996 to commemorate the visit of Pope

John Paul II to Ljubljana 2

Perched high above the Old Town, the. Ljubljana Castle

of the city with the Karavanke Mountains castle’s clock tower provides a great view

in the distance 1

of the AnnunciationFranciscan Church

attractive Baroque Ljubljana’s most

church, with a single nave and two rows

con of lateral chapels, tains a splendid

18th-cen by Italian sculptor tury altar

richly adorned with Francesco Robba,

spiral columns and figurines.

The Town Halla Renaissance ,

from 1719, has an building dating

attractive courtyard.

The Prešeren StatueLjubljana’s best-known , one of

Romantic poet and national landmarks, honours

icon France Prešeren.

0 metres

0 yards

50

50

A funicular railway Square transports visitors to the from Krekov

wooded Castle Hill.

The Market Colonnade, an

elon built by architect gated pavil ion

Jože Plečnik in 1939, houses food shops

and a fish market.

MESTNI TRG

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preŠ^
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trg
VODN
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QUARE
Statue of Valentin
Vodnik
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp596–7 and pp598–
SOUTH EASTERN EUROPE
Museum of Old West Art r
Muzeul de Arta Veche Apuseana
Str Dr Minovici 3.Tel (021) 665 7334. Map@ F1.

9am–5pm Thu–Sun. &

This charming red-brick Tudor-style house was built in the
1930s for Dumitru Minovici, who made his for tune in the
oil industry and became an avid art collector. The house
con European art dating back to tains a collect ion of
the 16th cen nished with antiques and tury and is fur-
Swiss stained-glass windows.
Herăstrău Park and Lake e
Parcul Herăstrău
Str Kiseleff 32. Village MuseumMap Tel F1. (021) 317 @

9110. 9am–7pm Tue–Sun. # 9am–5pm Mon, & http://www.
      muzeul-satului.ro
      Bucharest’s largest park was created in the
      Carol II after sev 1930s under King eral
      marshes in the area were drained. Located to the
      north of the city, the park is popular today
      with cyclists, roller-bladers and joggers.
      Regular boat trips traverse the lake and smaller boats are
      avail Herãstrãu is also home able for indivi dual hire.
      to one of Europe’s oldest museum parks, the Village
      Museum1936, it com. Inaugurated in prises a won derful
      col lection of recon rural dwell ings and work-structed
      shops. The buildings represent architec tural styles from all
      over the country and range from 19th-century wood-tiled
      houses to wooden wind and thatched Transylvanian mills
      cottages with beautifully painted window frames.
      There is even a half-buried

Transylvanian biblical icons on stained glass, Museum of Art Collection

Museum of the Romanian

Peasant Muzeul Țăranului Row

Str Şoseaua Kiseleff 3. Tel (021) 317 9661. @ Map300.

#www 10am–6pm Tue–Sun. .muzeultaranuluiroma&

Housed in a red-brick built in 1906, the Museum o

the Romanian Peasant was intended as a celebration of

the country’s traditions at a time when industrialization

was begin rural face of Romania. With ning to alter the

around 100,000 exhibits, the collec tion covers the regions

of Romania. It includes mock-ups of crafts men’s workshops,

a 19th-cen tury classroom and numer ous colourful trad itional

costumes. The highlight, how ever, is an enormous wooden -

18th-century wind which has been recon-mill,

structed on the ground floor alongside a ma s-

sive spiked (carding comb), which dărstă

was used to prepare wool for spin ning. A

room at the back con-tains a replica of an

Orthodox church, hung with icons dating back

to the 17th cen The Communism tury.

Exhibition, which has paintings and

Royal Palace and National

Art Museum Regal Palatul şi Muzeul 9

Naţional de ArtaCalea Victoriei 49–53. Map D3.

TelMay–Sep: 11am–7pm Wed–Sun; (021) 314 8189. @ 178. #

Oct–Apr: 10am–6pm Wed–Sun. 8 = http://www.mnar.arts.ro &

An imperial residence since the mid-19th century, the

Royal Palace has undergone several renovations during

its lifetime. King Carol I (see p568) was respon sible

for much of the current layout, redesigned in 1906.

Further recon place after a catastro phic fire struc tion took

in 1926 and heavy bombing in World War II. Its location

next to Revolution Square led to further damage from

gunfire in December 1989. Housed in the north wing

of the palace, the National Art Museum was opened in 1950

to house the royal family’s art collection. It closed in 1989

following the revolution when as many as 1,000 artworks

were damaged, but reopened after complete renovation.

The Gallery of Romanian Art includes sculp tures by world-

renowned sculptor Constantin Brâncuşi and paintings by

artist Nicolae Grigorescu. The European Art Gallery, spread

over 15 rooms, boasts works by masters such as Rubens,

Rembrandt, El Greco, Tintoretto and Monet.

Museum of Art Collection 0

Muzeul Colecţiilor de ArtaCalea Victoriei 111. Map D3.

Telfor renovations, call in advance. (021) 212 9641. @ # closed &

Housed in a Neo-Classical mansion with a surprisingly

unassuming interior, the Museum of Art Collection

has an intriguing variety of exhibits, of which the

dazzling 17th-century gilt icon of Jesus Christ is the

undisputed high An impressive light.

range of Romanian artwork by masters

such as Nicolae Grigorescu, Ştefan

Luchian and Nicolae Tonitza

occupies the ground floor.

On the first floor, a display of tradi tional

glass Transylvanian icons, remark able for their bright

colours and simplicity, can be seen along side the

Oriental collection, com sing 15th-cen tury Chinese pri-

porce Japanese crock lain, 19th-century ery, statues

and a pretty wooden cup-board inlaid with mother-

of-pearl, as well as Iranian cera mics and Turkish rugs.

The same floor has a selec- tion of antique European

treasures which includes Austrian silverware, colourful

Storck Museum Muzeul de Arta q

Frederic Storck şi Cecilia Cutescu-Storck

Str V Alecsandri 16.# 9am–4pm Tue–Sun. Map (^) & D2. @
Built in 1913 by sculptor and architect Frederick Storck, this
museum contains numerous works of art created or
collected by Storck and his wife Cecilia.
Delightful murals with floral and
feminine motifs cover the walls of
the central rooms, which took Cecilia
Other pictures by four years to paint.
scapes painted at the family Cecilia include sea-
villa in Balchik (now in Bulgaria), portraits and still
lifes. Parti among Storck’s sculp cularly impres tures, sive
which are exhibited next to his wife’s work, are the
bronze pieces inspired by Rodin. Several rooms are
furnished with lovely ceramic stoves deco rated with floral
and bird motifs painted by Karl Storck, Frederick’s father,
who was the first Romanian teacher of sculp ture in the
Fine Arts Academy of Bucharest. There is also a
Bohemian crystal and 19th-century French furni-
ture and tapestries.
Carpet, Museum of Art Collection
Visitors at the Royal Palace and National Art Museum The grand building of the Museum of the Romanian Peasant
memorabilia relating to Romania’s former Communist
leaders, is worth a visit. Also of interest are the hand made
wooden chairs col villages around the country, lected from
displayed on the first floor.
Passenger boat cruising on the calm
Costume display, Museum of the
Romanian Peasant
small exhibition of medreligious objects collect
during the couple’s trav
the notice of invading tribes. However, the high lights of the
museum are the oak houses from Maramureş county,
which have beauti hunt ing and ani mal scenes on fully carved
their gateways. The museum shop stocks an excellent
range of souvenirs.
576
RÂŞNOV FORTRESSSituated halfway between the towns of Braşov and Bran, Râşnov Fortress
overlooks the small town of Râşnov from a hilltop. Founded in the 13th cen-tury by Teutonic knights, the fortress
served as a refuge for the people of Râşnov during times of seige. The central
courtyard con well, dug to supply drinking water to tains a 143-m (469-ft) deep
the inhabitants. A museum within the complex dis plays armour and various
finds uncovered during excavations, among them a skeleton now encased
beneath a glass floor.
ROMANIA 581
VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
195 km (121 miles) NW of Bucharest. Tel (0268) 238 332.
@Sep: noon–7pm Mon, 9am– from Braşov. # May–
7pm Tue–Sun; Oct–Apr: 9am– 4pm Tue–Sun. http://www.brancastlemuseum.ro & 8 =
Distinctly Gothic in style, this. Gothic Room
sculp vaulted room is fur nished with tures and furni ture dating
back to the 14th century. Among these is the 16th-century wooden
sculpture of St Anne.
Secret PassagesSome of the
castle’s 60 rooms are connected by
a network of under ground
pass were used either ages, which
for hasty evacu-ations or to bring
in food supplies in times of siege.
The dining hallQueen Marie to entertain royal guests. The massive wooden was used by
dining table is ornately carved with mythical images.
Bran Castle Castelul Bran 3
Perched on a rocky bluff, Bran Castle was built in the 13th century and first used as a defence
against the Ottomans. Although the ruler of Wallachia, Vlad Țepeş, better known as Dracula,
never lived here, it is believed that he was briefly imprisoned here by the Hungarians. In more
recent times, the castle was the favour mer residence of Queen Marie (grand daughter ite sum-
bished the entire building and had electricity installed. of Queen Victoria of England), who refur-
Known today as Dracula’s Castle, it is now a museum dedicated to the history of the Romanian Royal Family.
580 SOUTH EASTERN EUROPE
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp596–7 and pp598–
STAR FEATURES

. Chapel of Prince Mircea
. Gothic Room
. Queen Marie’s Bedroom

.Prince Mircea Chapel of

This chapel is dedicated to Queen Marie’s first

child, who died of typhus in 1916 at

the age of three. The centre piece is a daz-

zling gilt icono brought from Mount stasis

Athos in Greece.

The Inner Yard WellConverted into an elevator in 1921,

this 60-m (197-ft) deep well led to a passage that opened out into a

park in the valley.

Queen Marie’s Music Saloon and LibraryDark wooden floors and rustic furniture create an

inviting atmosphere in this attic room. The larg room in the castle, it became Queen Marie’s music est

room and housed her German harmonium.

Decorated in Art Nouveau style, the queen’s. Queen Marie’s Bedroom

bedroom contains several pieces of furniture she commis sioned herself, including a

armchair adorned with carved vultures. rosewood Italian Baroque bed and an

Râşnov Fortress sitting on a hilltop

Tombstone at the castle

The castle’s highest tower was built

in the early 20th century as a deco-rative feature.

112 NORTH EASTERN EUROPE

Practical & Travel Information

Estonia has a well-developed network of visitor information centres, even in small towns. There is an

abundance of useful literature to help visitors get the best out of their trip. Several major international carriers

from many European cities provide links to Estonia’s capital, Tallinn. The country is also well served by both

domestic and international ferries, with regular services to Tallinn and the popular island of Saaremaa.

DOCUMENTATIONwww.vm.ee

http://www.ec.europa.eu

VISITOR INFORMATION

http://www.visitestonia.com

EMBASSIES

CanadaToomkooli 13, Tallinn.

Telwww 627 3311..canada.ee

United StatesKentmanni 20, Tallinn.

Telwww 668 8100..usemb.ee

United KingdomWismari 6, Tallinn.

Telwww 667 4700.britishembassy.ee.

EMERGENCY NUMBERS

AmbulanceTel 112.

FireTel 112.

PoliceTel 112.

ARRIVING BY AIR

airBalticwww.airbaltic.com

easyJetwww.easyjet.com

Estonian Airwww.estonian-air.ee

Finnairwww.finnair.com

KLMwww.klm.com

Lennart Meri Tallinn Airport

Telwww 605 8888.tallinn-airport.ee.

Lufthansawww.lufthansa.com

ARRIVING BY SEAEckerö Line

wwwPassenger Port.eckeroline.fi

Sadama 25, Tallinn. Tel 631 8550.

wwwTallink.portoftallinn.com

wwwViking Line.tallink.ee

http://www.vikingline.fi

RAIL TRAVELBalti Jaam

Toompuiestee 37, Tallinn.

Telwww 3721 447.baltijaam.ee.

ARRIVING BY COACH

Ecolineswww.ecolines.ee

Eurolineswww.eurolines.ee

Tallinn Bus StationLastekodu 46,

Tallinn. Tel 3721 2550.

DIRECTORY

WHEN TO VISIT

The best time to visit Estonia is from May to September when

it is pleasantly warm. July and August are the warmest

months. Winter, between October and March, is cold,

dark and damp but very atmos pheric when forests

are laden with snow. January, the cold est month, is best

avoided, as is the rainy month of April, when the snow melts

and turns sludgy.

HEALTH AND SECURITY

Estonian tend to be in poor condition. haigla (hospitals)

Private clinics exist in all major cities and are a better option

for non-emergency treatment. EU citizens with an EHIC card

are entitled to free treatment. Visitors are also advised to

drink bottled mineral water rather than tap water.

Using common sense is the best way to ensure personal

safety. Visitors should never accept drinks from strangers

and avoid disreputable-looking nightclubs. It is wise

not to carry any luxury items.

FACILITIES FOR THE DISABLED

Although there has been a significant improvement in

recent years, Estonia is not very well equipped in pro-

viding facilities for the disabled. In Tallinn, there are

several steep winding cobble-stoned streets. Trolleybuses,

trams and trains do not provide wheelchair access

and only a few buses do.

TRAVELLING BY CAR

Since 2007, when the Baltic States agreed to the Schengen

Agreement (under which sys-tematic border controls were

abolished between Schengen countries), there are no bor-

der restrictions for Schengen visa holders. Crossing the

border from Latvia is easy, especially for EU passport

holders. The border crossing with Russia is slower and

border guards are likely to scrutinize one’s documents.

Visitors bringing their own car into Estonia are required to

show the Vehicle Registration document, an international

driving permit and a valid Green Card insur ance policy.

TRAVELLING BY COACH

International coach routes to Estonia are provided by

Eurolinesoperate connections between and Ecolines, which

Tallinn and Berlin, Munich, Kaliningrad, Warsaw and

RAIL TRAVEL

Tallinn’s main railway station, Balti Jaam, is a short walk

away from the Old Town. The only international links are a

nightly train to Moscow, and an irregular service to St

Petersburg. Tickets should be pre-booked, since Russian visa

specifications insist on dates of entry and exit. The Rail Baltica

ARRIVING BY SEAEstonia is very well served by route is due to link Tallinn with Rīga and Vilnius by 2013.

ferry, with Tallinn’s Port (reisisadam) handling Passenger

about 7 million passengers a year. The main line Tallink

has routes to Helsinki (Finland), Rostock (Germany)

and Stockholm (Sweden), while other carriers such as

Viking Line and Eckerö Line

ARRIVING BY AIR

The sleek-looking Meri Tallinn Airport Lennart is the

main Estonian airport with

marans, ferries and even a hydrofoil making the cross ing

at regular inter Passenger Port is within vals. The

walking distance of Tallinn’s Old Town and a taxi ride

should cost between 50 and 75 krooni. Tallinn also

features on an increasing number of Baltic Sea cruise

itineraries, although these normally only allow for a

day’s stopover.

DOCUMENTATION

Citizens of EU member-states, the US, Canada, Australia and

New Zealand can enter Estonia for a period of up to

90 days in a half-year period on presentation of a valid pass-

port. Those wishing to stay beyond 90 days will need to

apply for a national long-term visa or a residence permit.

Visitors from other countries should enquire at their local

Estonian embassy or con su late to check visa requirements

before travel ling. The official website of the Estonian

Ministry of Foreign Affairs offers infor mation on visa reg-

ulations. EU citizens are not subject to customs regulations,

provided they adhere to EU guidelines. All visitors should

check for any customs duty or special per mis sion required to

export a cultural object, before buying it. For detailed infor-

mation on all these guidelines, entrance regu lations and visa

charges, it is advisable to visit the offi cial website of the

European Commission.

COMMUNICATIONS

Estonia’s communications infrastructure is very efficient.

All phone lines are digital, ensuring high-quality connec-tions. Mobile phone usage is

particularly high. The post offices offer a range of express

delivery options. Internet access is limited in provinces.

regular scheduled flights. Irecent years the airport ha

become a regional hub, serviced by approximately

15 airlines including major carriers such as Finnair,

airBaltic Founded in 1991, , Lufthansa and Estonian KLM.

Aircarrier. Based in Tallinn, it is the country’s national

offers a good standard of ser-vice in both business and

economy class. The airline has direct links with several

major European destinations as well as many Estonian cities

and islands. Visitors from side Europe need to catch a out-

con such as London, Copenhagen, nect ing flight from cities

Helsinki or Stockholm. As a consequence of the

EU “open-skies” policy, which was implemented in

2004, several economical carriers, such as easyJet,

now provide daily flights to Tallinn from London.

a short taxi ride^ into the city

centre, or one can catch tram number 2 or 4, or bus number

17, 17a or 23. Passengers travelling to Tallinn by bus

from Rīga or Vilnius can get off at the more central Viru

väljak bus stop. There are also limited inter na tional

coach con and Tartu. nections with Pärnu The coach net work

is effi and services are clearly ciently run and cheap, posted

in bus stations.

VISITOR INFORMATION

The network of information centres in the country is sup-

ported by an equally advanced structure of tourism web sites.

Most towns have a tourist information office located in

or close to the town square. There are no tourist offices at

the land borders or at Tallinn airport but there is one at the

Tallinn harbour. Offices are generally open from 9am to

6pm on week shorter hours on Saturdays; days and for

many are also open on Sundays. The staff is friendly

and speak English. Free bro-chures listing local sights and

events are available at these offices, which also sell maps

and guide official tour books. Estonia’s ism web site has a

list of all the tourist information offices in the country.

BANKING AND CURRENCY

In Estonia, banks are usually open from Monday to Friday

between 9am and 6pm. Major banks stay open on Saturdays

from 9am to 2pm. Exchange bureaus are widespread and

have better exchange rates than hotels. ATMs are found

everywhere, including petrol stations. Estonia’s mone tary

unit is the kroon (EEK), translated as crown, and is

divided into 100 sentis.

THE CLIMATE OF ESTONIA

From May to September there is little risk of cold

weather, but winters are freezing, with temperatures

dipping to -12° C (10° F). Rain comes in brief, sharp

outburst Days are short in December throughout the year.

and January, with 18 hours of darkness, but between

March and October, the long 12-hour days are excellent for

outdoor activities. AprJulOctJan

4 /

(^6) hrs 10 hrs 2 hrs hrs 1
(^31) mm 68 mm mm (^68 39) mm
-10/
20 /
7 /61^10 /
0 /
12 /
4 /
month
TALLINN
° C/F
32°F0°C