Back Roads Germany (Dk Eyewitness Travel Back Roads)

101

EAT AND DRINK IN GOSLAR

Aubergine moderate

A luxury restaurant serving French

and Italian cusine. Good for fresh

fish and lamb. The mocha mousse

dessert is a house speciality.

Marktstrasse 4, 38640; 05321 421 36;

http://www.aubergine-goslar.de

Die Worthmühle moderate

Harz’s speciality restaurant, with

rustic nooks and dishes such as

wild boar and trout, serves excellent

Goslarer Gosebier, a fruity local beer.

Worthstrasse 4, 38640; 05321 434 02;

http://www.worthmuehle.de

Other options

Goslar is filled with atmospheric cafés

but look out for the Baroque-style

Café Anders (Hohe Weg 4, 38640;

05321 238 14), which has homemade

truffles and great Harz views.

DRIVE 9: Mystical Mountains

Eat and Drink: inexpensive, under €20; moderate, €20–€40; expensive, over €40

DAY TRIP OPTIONS

Despite its many dark and remote

corners, the Harz is compact and

within range of day trips. Quedlinburg

is a good base and is well served by

the narrow-gauge railroad.

Castles and caves

From Quelinburg 3 , head to Thale

and walk along the Bode Valley. If there

is time to spare, the Harzer Uhrenfabrik

2 at Gernrode is a good wet-weather

option, along with the Burg Falkenstein

1 or the Rübeland Höhlen 5.

Follow thr route to Thale and continue to

the T-junction after Neinstedt. Turn right

and head to Gernrode, then take the

road to Ballenstedt and continue to Burg

Falkenstein. For the caves, head from

Thale to Blankenburg and on to the B27.

Magical Brocken

Enjoy a ride on the narrow-gauge

trains from Quedlinburg 3 to the

summit of the Brocken 6.

Quedlinburg’s railroad station is at the

end of Bahnhofstrasse; from the market

walk along Steinbrücke and then

turn right down Bahnhofstrasse.

Picturesque Harz

Explore Goslar 8 , a pretty town

with 18,00 half-timbered houses

and then head to the interesting

Rammelsberger Bergbaumuseum 9

to visit the old silver mine, and

learn about the history of mining

in this region.

Follow the route to Goslar, then the B241

to Rammelsberger Bergbaumuseum.

the 15th-century Rathaus with its
Gothic gables looks most impressive
at night. Behind it is the Romanesque
market church or Marktkirche. The
16th-cen tury half-timbered Brusttuch
Haus 2 , with its excellent wood-
work, lies behind the church. From
the left of the house, Hoher Weg
heads to the Musikinstrumente-und
Puppenmuseum 3 (open daily), which
boasts Germany’s oldest instrument: a

hurdy-gurdy. Further along Hoher
Weg, a path to the left follows the
Abzucht stream, which leads to the
Goslarer Museum 4 (closed Mon).
Inside, the Goslarer Evangeliar, a jewel-
encrusted book of gospels, and the
Bergkanne, a stein with figures of
miners, are displayed. Back to Hoher
Weg, the Grosses-Heiliges-Kreuz 5
(open daily), a former hospice, is now a
craft center. At the end of Hoher Weg
is the Domvorhalle, the vestibule of a
church that once housed the
Kaiserstuhl, the imperial throne.
Down the street to the right is the

Kaiserpfalz 6 (open daily), the 11th-
cen tury imperial palace of Heinrich
III. Later, it was used as a granary, until
it was rescued by Kaiser Wilhelm I in
1868 for the Second Reich. Inside, the
Ulrichskapelle is the resting place of

Heinrich III’s heart in a gilt box. From

Kaiserpfalz, go left to Bergstrasse. On

the opposite corner is the Baroque

Siemenshaus 7 (open Tue & Thu), the

family home of the Siemens indus tri-

alist family. A short walk from here to

Jakobistrasse leads to Mönchehaus

Museum 8 (closed Mon), which

displays the work of art ists including

Willem de Kooning. Continue down

Jakobistrasse to the parking lot.

ª Turn right on to Vogelsang, left on

to Bäckerstrasse, then right on to

Mauerstrasse, and left on to

Okerstrasse. Turn right on to the B241

and left on to Rammelsberger Strasse

to the museum.

9 Rammelsberger

Bergbaumuseum

Lower Saxony; 38640

For a millennium the Rammelsberger

silver mine formed Goslar’s economic

backbone. Closed down in 1998, it has

since become the Bergbaumuseum

(open daily) that chronicles the mine’s

history. Visitors can don overalls and

tour the 18th- and 19th-cen tury shafts.

Above left Fountain in the Markt, Goslar

Above right Outdoor cafés in Goslar with

the Marktkirche looming behind Below Old

mine at the Rammelsberger Bergbaumuseum