DRIVE 3: The Baltic Coast 53
VISITING STRALSUNDParking
Ample parking is available at the
Ozeaneum parking lot on
Hafenstrasse.
Tourist Information
Alter Markt 9, 18349; 03831 246 90;
http://www.stralsundtourismus.deA one-hour walking tour
From the parking lot, walk to the old
harbor to see the windjammer Gorch
Fock 1 (open daily), which is perma-
nently moored here for tours. Among
the 19th-century warehouses along
the seafront is the Ozeaneum 2 ,
where visitors can walk through
the spectacu lar glass tunnels
at the North and Baltic Sea
aquariums and explore the
auditorium, which has life-
size models of whales.
Behind it and across the
Fährkanal, mer chants’
gabled houses line the
Fährstrasse 3 , which linked
the hubs of medi eval life in
Stralsund: port and government. Carl
Wilhelm Scheele, the 18th-cen tury
scientist who dis covered the
existence of oxy gen, was born at No.
27–28, which now hosts exhibitions.
Continue down the street to Alter
Markt 4 to see one of the finest
ensembles of Gothic archi tecture in
the Baltic – the 14th-cen tury Rathaus
(town hall) with its rosetted façade to
let strong winter winds through;
St. Nikolaikirche (open daily), whose
Novgorod altar depicts fur traders
hunting squirrels to sell to a Hanseatic
League mer chant; and Wulflam Haus,
built for a wealthy patrician family.
It is also possible to see reminders
of the two centuries of Swedish rule
that fol lowed the Thirty Years’ War –
Commandantenhaus, the grey
Baroque governor’s residence with
its Swedish coat of arms, and, inside
the town hall, a bust of the Swedish
King Gustav Adolf. Walk south from
Alter Markt, on to the high street,
Ossenreyerstrasse 5 ; the bookshop
at No. 14 is thought to be the town’s
oldest secular build ing, dating from
- Continue right, around the
corner on to Apollonienmarkt, then
turn right into Mönchstrasse to reach
the 13th-cen tury Kloster St.
Katharinen 6. Now deconsecrated, it
4 Stralsund
Mecklenburg-Lower Pomerania; 18439
An exquisite skyline hints at Stralsund’s architectural wealth. Ringed
by water, its Gothic core has impressed visitors for centuries, from the
merchants who came to trade in one of the most powerful medieval
ports in the Baltic to the UNESCO inspectors who awarded it
World Heritage Site status in 2002.
houses an aquarium (open daily) and a
culture museum (Feb–Oct: open daily;
Nov–Jan: closed Mon) with a muraled
refectory. The museum ticket also pro-
vides access to the Gothic house of a
mer chant at No. 38 on Mönchstrasse
and a museum of Mecklenburg
folk cul ture at No. 23 on
Böttcherstrasse. For an image
of Stralsund in its prime,
walk south wards down
Mönchstrasse to
Marienkirche 7 on
Neuer Markt. The town’s
largest church has lovely
stellar vaulting as well as
views out to sea from its
octa go nal tower (open
daily). A ten-minute walk between
the hist oric houses on Frankenstrasse
off Neuer Markt leads back to the
har bor and to the parking lot near
the Ozeaneum.
ª Return to the B96 and follow signs
to Insel Rügen. Drive across the suspen-
sion bridge, then turn right toward
Putbus. Parking is on the Markt.Portal of the
Nikolaikirche, Stralsund0 meters0 yards200200Eat and Drink: inexpensive, under €20; moderate, €20–€40; expensive, over €40EAT AND DRINKROSTOCK
Borwin moderate
Located by the harbor, Borwin has a
beach-shack atmosphere that belies
an excellent fresh fish menu.
Am Strande 2, 18055; 03831 490 75 25
Chezann moderate
Creative dishes such as spiced tuna
on avocado chutney plus duck with
Calvados (brandy) are served in this
stylish bistro and restaurant.
Mühlenstrasse 28, 18119 Warnemünde;
0381 510 77 77; http://www.chezann.de;
open Tue–Sun dinnerFISCHLAND
Elisabeth’s moderate
In the former home of artist Elisabeth
von Eicken, this gallery-restaurant
serves a mix of Mecklenburg and
Mediterranean dishes.
Dorfstrasse 39, 18347 Ahrenshoop;
038220 69 90; open Wed–Sun dinnerSTRALSUND
Zur Kogge inexpensive
This 19th-century inn serves
well-priced Baltic fish.
Tribseer Strasse 25, 18439;
03831 28 58 50FährkanalOSSENRE
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