52 BACK ROADS GERMANY
1 Bad Doberan
Mecklenburg-Lower Pomerania; 18209
Chinoiserie park pavilions,
Neo-Classical buildings, and a historic
steam train (daily) to the seaside resort
of Kühlungsborn, 4 miles (6 km) away
from the town, are reminders of Bad
Doberan’s days as a fashionable health
spa estab lished in 1801 by the Duke
of Mecklenburg, Friedrich Franz. Prior
to this, the town’s only claim to fame
was its graceful Gothic Münster (open
daily). The church’s rich medieval
furnishings attest to the wealth of
the Cistercian Order; the gilded high
altar dating from 1300 is said to be
the oldest wing altar in the world.
ª Turn left out of the Münster parking
lot to join the B105 to Rostock. Follow
signs to Zentrum, then to “City”
parking lot in Lange Strasse.whose clockwork apostles parade in
front of Jesus when the clock strikes
noon. Post-war rebuild ing has
returned some of the city’s sights to
their former glory. These include the
Neuer Markt oppo site the church,
with its multicolored gabled houses,
the town hall, and Kröpeliner Strasse,
the shopping high street. To get to the
beach, return down Lange Strasse to
find the B103 to Warnemünde.The
fish restaurants and boutiques of this
sea side suburb are as much of a sur-
prise as its powder-fine beach dotted
with wicker chairs or Strandkörbe.
ª Continue on the B103 for the ferry
at Passagierkai across the Warnow to
Hohe Düne. Drive to Niederhagen, turn
right toward Rostock at Rövershagen,
then take the B105 toward Ribnitz.
After 6 miles (10 km), turn left to reach
the Fischland peninsula.Above Universitätplatz lined with colorful
buildings, Rostock Below left Gothic Rathaus
in Stralsund Below right Cistercian Gothic
Münster in Bad DoberanBAD DOBERAN TRAIN RIDEThe Mecklenburgische Bäderbahn Molli
runs from Alexandrinenplatz terminus
to the coastal resorts of Heilgendamn
and Kuhlungsborn from late April to
October, as well as in winter.
038203 41 50; http://www.molli-bahn.deWHERE TO STAYBAD DOBERAN
Friedrich-Franz-Palais moderate
The Duke of Mecklenburg’s former
guesthouse for aristocrat spa-goers
offers pretty rooms.
Am Kamp, 18209; 038203 630 36;
http://www.friedrich-franz-palais.deFISCHLAND
Seezeichen expensive
The Seezeichen, a stylish spa hotel,
has a terrace overlooking the sands.
Dorfstrasse 22, 18347
Ahrenshoop; 03822 06 79 70;
http://www.seezeichenhotel.deSTRALSUND
Pension Peiss moderate
A friendly home-away-from-home, this
pension has colorful modern rooms.
Tribseer Strasse 15, 18439; 03831 30
35 80; http://www.altstadt-pension-peiss.de3 Fischland
Mecklenburg-Lower Pomerania; 18347
Artists acclaim the unspoiled rural
landscapes of this peninsula, which
extends parallel to the coast. In 1880,
an artist’s colony was founded in
the fishing village of Ahrenshoop,
which is now a chic seaside retreat.
Kunstkaten (closed Mon) holds art
exhibitions in a tradi tional house
and a retrospective art museum is
sched uled to open in 2012. Drive
through the woods of Darss and
beyond Prerow am Darss to Zingst,
whose coastal marshes host middle
Europe’s largest crane roost in
spring and fall. Zingst also has a
museum on the peninsula’s culture
(closed Mon).
ª Take the main road to Barth, then
follow signs to Löbnitz to take the B105
to Stralsund. Turn toward the Altstadt
on to the B96 and follow signs to the
Ozeaneum parking lot.2 Rostock
Mecklenburg-Lower Pomerania; 18055
Industrialization after World War II
turned Rostock into Germany’s
largest Baltic port and the biggest
city in the state. How ever, it still has
historic monu ments and is a popular
beach resort. One of the highlights
of the city is the 15th-century
Marienkirche (open daily) on Lange
Strasse. Behind the church’s altar is a
contem po rary astro nomical clock,