Back Roads Great Britain (Eyewitness Travel Back Roads)

115

6 Finchingfield
Essex; CM7
A picture-postcard village, reputedly
the most photographed in England,
with thatched cottages, village green,
duck pond, windmill and Norman
Church of St John the Baptist. Dodie
Smith, author of The One Hundred and
One Dalmatians, once lived here.
ª Cross the bridge and turn right past
church to Wethersfield, head east along
the High St to Sible Hedingham. Go left
on A1017 and almost immediately right
on B1058. Follow signs to the car park.

8 Sudbury
Suffolk; CO10
This ancient Suffolk wool town, amid
sublime countryside in the Stour Valley,
boasts no fewer than three medieval
churches, a Victorian corn exchange,

EAT AND DRINK

SAFFRON WALDEN

Kim’s Coffee House inexpensive

Home-baked cakes and scones, a wide

choice of sandwiches and filled

baguettes prepared to order and a

vast choice of leaf teas in this friendly

establishment in Georgian premises.

5 Hill Street, CB10 1EH; closed Sun

AROUND SAFFRON WALDEN

Cricketers moderate

Locally sourced, seasonal, organic food

takes pride of place at this 16th-century

inn, run by the parents of TV chef Jamie

Oliver, 12 minutes’ drive from Saffron

Walden on the B1383/B10.8. The menu

features chicken, “lots of fish” and

home-made sausages.

Wicken Road, Clavering;

CB11 4QT; 01799 550 442;

http://www.thecricketers.co.uk

CASTLE HEDINGHAM

Bell Inn inexpensive–moderate

Beamed and timbered 15th-century

real-ale pub in extensive garden,

serving freshly-prepared, honest food,

much of it locally sourced. Home-

made soup, sausages with mustard

mash. Monday night is barbecued fish

night – phone ahead to book your fish.

CO9 3EJ; 01787 460350;

http://www.hedinghambell.co.uk

AROUND SUDBURY

The Henny Swan moderate

This inn with garden on the banks of the

Stour, south of Sudbury, has numerous

awards for its stylish gastropub cooking.

For a novelty, book to come here for

lunch from Sudbury aboard the eight-

seater electric boat, the Rosette.

Henny St, Great Henny, CO10 7LS;

01787 269 238; http://www.hennyswan.com

Above War Memorial by the village green and

pond at Finchingfield

Above Ancient mulberry tree in the grounds of
Gainsborough’s House, Sudbury

Above The imposing keep of 12th-century

Hedingham Castle

7 Hedingham Castle
Essex; CO9 3DJ
Cross a dry moat by way of a Tudor
bridge to reach the four-storey remains
of this 12th-century castle (mid-Apr–Oct:
open Sun–Thu; http://www.hedinghamcastle.co.
uk ), with its tall keep, banqueting hall
and minstrels’ gallery. The grounds and
surrounding woodlands are especially
lovely in spring when carpeted with
bluebells. In summer, there may be
jousting and other spectacles.
ª Take B1058, then A131 to Sudbury.
Join one-way system and follow signs to
car park by Tourist Information Centre.

DRIVE 10: The River Cam and Constable Country

Eat and Drink: inexpensive, under £25; moderate, £25–£50; expensive, over £50

and a bronze statue of the painter

Thomas Gainsborough (1727–88),

which presides over the market square.

Modern commercial development has

been at some cost to historic charm,

but Gainsborough’s House (closed Sun

and Christmas; http://www.gainsborough.org), a

typical Suffolk building, has a unique

collection of the work of this master of

portraiture and landscape. Loaned

works and local artists are frequently

on display, too. In the walled garden

stands a 400-year-old mulberry tree.

South of town, there are pleasant

meadows to picnic in and river cruise

boats operate from the quayside, run

by the River Stour Trust.

ª Follow signs round one-way

system to Bury St Edmunds, A134.

Branch onto B1064 to Long Melford.

his Planets Suite, and highwayman Dick
Turpin (1705–39), whose cottage can
be seen on the alley up to the church.
ª Take Bardfield Rd right, signed “the
Bardfields”, to Great Bardfield and B1057
left to Finchingfield. Park on street.