Back Roads Great Britain (Eyewitness Travel Back Roads)

181

Above left Agatha Christie’s hideout, the Old

Swan Hotel, Harrogate Above centre The

East end window of Ripon Cathedral Above

right Ripley Castle, the Ingilby family home

for 700 years

EAT AND DRINK

HARROGATE

Betty’s Café Tea Rooms inexpensive

The original Betty’s has been tempting

in visitors since 1919, with the promise

of “something fresh and dainty”. There is

an extensive choice of cooked food, as

well as over 300 breads, cakes and 50

different teas and coffees.

1 Parliament Street, HG1 2QU; 01423

877 300; http://www.bettys.co.uk

Hales Bar inexpensive

The town’s oldest pub has retained its

Victorian character using mirrors and

working gas lights, and has friendly

staff, real ale and good simple food.

The odd whiff of sulphur wafts from

the springs that flow below the cellar.

1 Crescent Road, HG1 2RS; 01423 725

570; http://www.halesbar.co.uk

Drum and Monkey

moderate–expensive

A fish restaurant in an attractive building

over two floors. Fresh fish and shellfish –

lobster, Dover sole, oysters, halibut and

sea bass etc – is delivered daily. It’s not

cheap, but there are lunchtime

sandwiches for those on a budget.

5 Montpellier Gardens, HG1 2TF; 01423

502 650; http://www.drumandmonkey.co.uk

RIPON

Lockwoods inexpensive–moderate

This is a popular family-run lunchtime

café bar and evening restaurant just off

the square, serving brunch, sandwiches,

light, zesty lunches and more ambitous

dinners from an eclectic menu.

83 North Street, HG4 1DP; 01765 607

555; http://www.lockwoodsrestaurant.co.uk

Stained-glass window,

Ripon Cathedral

2 Ripley
North Yorks; HG3 3AY
Home to the Ingilby family since the
14th century, Ripley Castle (Nov & Mar:
closed Mon, Wed, Fri; Dec–Feb: closed Mon–
Fri), is set amongst walled gardens and
wooded walks, lakes and a deer
park with venerable oaks. The
kitchen garden grows many
herbs and rare vegetable
varieties and the castle also
houses a National Hyacinth
Collection – from March to
October the flower borders
are spectacular. Inside,
seven rooms are open to
the public for guided tours.
Explore a family history of
political, military, religious
and social turbulence, from the
Renaissance to the Industrial
Revolution. The delightful estate
village of Ripley, adjoining the castle,
was built in the 1820s on the
eccentric whim of Sir William Ingilby,
who, inspired by his European travels,
endowed it with a Hotel de Ville (town
hall) on a square with stocks, a market
cross and a war memorial.

DRIVE 17: Yorkshire Dales & Abbeys

3 Ripon

North Yorks; HG4 1QT

Small but perfectly formed,

Ripon is centred on its market

square and has plenty for

the visitor – including an

impressive 13th-century

cathedral. On the square,

the Hornblower “sets the

watch” by blowing his horn

in each corner at 9pm – a

tradition dating from the

11th century.

For an excellent day out,

take the B6265 west, turning left for

Fountains Abbey and Studley Royal

(open daily). This World Heritage Site

contains a Cistercian abbey founded

in 1132, the largest abbey ruins in the

country, and a truly spectacular and

ornate Georgian water garden.

ª Head northwest on the A6108 and

follow signs for Jervaulx Abbey. There

is on-site parking with an honesty box.

ª Exit village, bearing right on the A61.

After 10 km (6.3 miles) take the first exit

off the roundabout onto the A6108;

follow signs to centre.

Left The wrought iron Art-Deco canopy of

Betty’s Café Tea Rooms, Harrogate