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Above left The grand façade of Manderston
House, remodelled in 1871 Top right View
south across the grass terrace at Manderston
House Above right The hi-tech Scottish
Seabird Centre, North Berwickside of the square to The Georgian
House 0 (open daily), a fine example
of an Edinburgh townhouse. Retrace
the route to Princes St, turn left back
up to the station car park.
ª From station car park, turn left
onto New Street, left along Carlton Rd
to a T-junction, left on Leith St and then
left onto A1. Beyond the fringes of the
city turn left onto A198, taking coastal
road to North Berwick. Park on streets
near harbour and seabird centre.
EAT AND DRINKEDINBURGH
David Bann moderate
Delicious, imaginative vegetarian food
such as roast aubergine chickpea cake or
risotto with asparagus, fennel and peas.
56–8 St Mary’s St, EH1 1SX; 0131 556
5888; http://www.davidbann.com
NORTH BERWICK
The Grange moderate
The seasonal menu at this popular
restaurant might include steak from the
local butcher and garden herbs.
35 High Street, EH39 4HH;
01620 893 344
Osteria No 1
Excellent Italian food at this acclaimed
restaurant, which serves a good value
3-course lunch. Mains might feature
chicken breast stuffed with pancetta.
Try the creamy pannacotta for dessert.
7 High Street, EH39 4HG;
http://www.osteria-no1.co.uk
AROUND NORTH BERWICK
Ducks at Aberlady
This award-winning restaurant on the
A198 to Edinburgh has 26 rooms too.
Main Street, Aberlady, EH32 ORE;
01875 870 682; http://www.ducks.co.uk
ST ABB’S HEAD
The Old Smiddy Cafe inexpensive
Pleasant little café in a former cottage
on the outskirts of St Abbs. Serves
soups, baguettes and cakes and has
seats outside for fine days.
By Nature Reserve Visitor Centre, TD14
5QF; 01890 71707; open daily May–Aug;
Mar & Apr weekends only2 North Berwick
The Harbour, North Berwick; EH39 4SS
With hi-tech cameras on its islands,
the Scottish Seabird Centre (open daily;
http://www.seabird.org)) allows visitors to view
wildlife all year round. In summer,
there are puffins and gannets rearing
their young; in winter, grey seals and
their dark-eyed pups. Visitors control
the cameras, and there are telescopes
on the viewing deck. Seabird Seafaris
also runs trips around the islands in
fast boats. Head to the town’s seafront
for a game of crazy golf or just take it
easy on the sandy beach.
ª Continue on A198 to rejoin A1. After
Cockburnspath, turn left onto A1107
and then left on B6438 to St Abb’s. The
Reserve is to the left just before town.
DRIVE 21: History and Romance in the Borders
Eat and Drink: inexpensive, under £25; moderate, £25–£50; expensive, over £503 St Abb’s Head
Nr Eyemouth,Berwickshire; TD14 5QF
The St Abb’s Head National Nature
Reserve has an unmanned visitor
centre detailing various coastal walks,
which offer dramatic clifftop views. The
most interesting walk goes to the
remote lighthouse, built in 1862 by the
Stevenson family (relatives of author
R L Stevenson): once lit by an oil lamp
4 Manderston House
Duns, Berwickshire; TD11 3PP
A superb Edwardian country
mansion, Manderston (May–Sep: open
Thu & Sun pm; http://www.manderston.co.uk)
was built by Sir James Miller, a wealthy
baronet, to impress society. Its most
extravagant feature must be the silver
staircase. The house is now home to
Lord and Lady Palmer, of Huntley and
Palmers biscuits.
ª Drive into Duns and take A6112 to
Swinton, then take B6461 to Kelso. Park
in or around the main square.Below View of the craggy coastline looking north from St Abb’s Head
it’s now fully automated. Next to the
visitor centre is a little café (May–Aug:
open daily). Continue into St Abb’s to
see the charming harbour.
ª Leave on B6438, cross the A1 (right
then left), staying on B6438, and turn
left on B6437. Then right on A6105 to
the main gates, from where signs lead
to the car park and entrance.