232
Above View of Argyll Hotel and church tower
from Loch FyneA one-and-a-half-hour
walking tour
From the car park, visit Inveraray Castle
1 (Apr–Oct: open daily; http://www.inveraray-
castle.com). The building belongs to the
Duke of Argyll, and the family are head
of the Campbell clan – the 1st Duke’s
regiment carried out the notorious
massacre at Glencoe (see p234). It is
crammed with tapestries, silverware
and porcelain and unusual items such
as Rob Roy’s sporran.
From the castle entrance, look for the
“Dun na Cuaich walk” signs and follow
the blue arrows along a tarmac track.
This soon passes a monument 2 ,
commemorating the execution of 17
Campbell leaders by the 1st Marquis of
Atholl in 1685. This was punishment
for rising against the Stuart King
James II in protest at his assertion that
he was divine head of the church.
Cross the charming 18th-century
stone bridge 3 – built by John Adam- that spans the River Aray, then bear
right to go through the woods. At a
gate, go straight ahead on the grassy
track to reach another gate, which
leads into woodland – in springtime
the ground is carpeted with bluebells.
The track soon passes a ruined former
lime kiln 4 on the left hand side.
Continue uphill, then branch right
after a few minutes, still following the
blue blue arrows.
Eventually the path bears to the
right and flattens out a little, and the
fresh scent of pine trees fills the air.
After passing the remains of a wall,
the woodland opens out, providing a
glimpse of the surrounding hills. Zig-
zag uphill now, to reach the summit,
which is covered with wild flowers in
summer and also has a welcome seat.
The views of the castle, the town and
the loch spread out far beneath are
wonderful. Dun na Cuaich 5 means
something like “fort of cups” in Gaelic
and this peak was the site of an Iron-
Age hillfort. The summit is topped
with a monument, built by another of
the famous Adam family of architects.
Some say it was used as a watchtower
by the Campbells, others that it was
simply built to enhance the landscape.
After enjoying the views and taking
a well-earned rest, simply follow the
path back down to Inveraray. TheVISITING INVERARAY
Tourist Information
Front Street, PA32 8UY; 08452 255 121;
http://www.visitscottishheartlands.com; Apr–
Oct: open daily; Nov-Mar: closed Sun.
Parking
There is parking off The Avenue, in the
centre of Inveraray, and by the castle.1 Inveraray
Argyll; PA32
Sitting on the banks of Loch Fyne, Inveraray is small but imposing. The
town was built by the 3rd Duke of Argyll in the 18th century and has
two main visitor attractions – its 19th-century jail and castle. The walk
explores the surrounding woodland and starts with a visit to the castle.BACK ROADS GREAT BRITAIN
Where to Stay: inexpensive, under £80; moderate, £80–£150; expensive, over £1500 metres0 yards500500WHERE TO STAYINVERARAY
Creag Dhubh inexpensive
A large, detached house set in neat
gardens, this family-run B&B has five bed-
rooms and great views over Loch Fyne.
Main Street South, PA32 8XT; 01499 302
430; http://www.creagdhubh.freeuk.com
Rudha-Na-Craige moderate
This handsome house was built in the
19th century by the Duke of Argyll. Now
it is a 4-star B&B, with six unfussy, stylish
bedrooms, all with views of Loch Fyne.
Inverarary, PA32 8YX; 01499 302 668;
http://www.rudha-na-craige.f2s.com
Loch Fyne Hotel and Spa expensive
Near the harbour, with stunning views of
Loch Fyne, this hotel has comfortable,
stylish rooms, a swimming pool and spa.
Main Street South, PA32 8XT; 01499 302
980; http://www.crerarhotels.com
BONAWE IRON FURNACE
Ardanaiseig Hotel moderate
Wildly romantic hotel on the shores of
Loch Awe (take B845 from Taynuilt), this
historic house has luxurious bedrooms.
Kilchrenan, by Taynuilt, Argyll, PA35 1HE;
01866 833 333; http://www.ardanaiseig.com
OBAN
Kimberley House moderate
In an old maternity hospital, this friendly
B&B has rooms combining antique and
modern décor with sea views.
Dalriach Rd, PA34 5EQ; 01631 571 115;
http://www.kimberley-hotel.co.uk%VOOB
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