Back Roads Great Britain (Eyewitness Travel Back Roads)

234

The Glencoe Massacre

The Macdonalds of Glencoe were

supporters of the Stuart kings. The

government offered an amnesty to

Highland chiefs who swore an oath

of allegiance to the new monarchs,

William and Mary. However, the

Macdonald Chief was late making his

declaration. So the Earl of Argyll’s

regiment, led by Captain Campbell,

was sent to Glencoe. After enjoying

the local hospitality for 10 days, on 13

February 1692, the soldiers attacked

their hosts, killing 38 Macdonalds.

WHERE TO STAY

AROUND GLENCOE

Kilcamb Lodge Hotel moderate

Peaceful hotel in a stunning lochside

location on the A861, beyond Strontian

on the drive to Ardnamurchan Peninsula.

Combines luxury with friendliness and

attention to detail. Excellent food, too.

Strontian, Argyll, PH36 4HY; 01967 402

257; http://www.kilcamblodge.co.uk

AROUND ARMADALE CASTLE

GARDENS

Kinloch Lodge moderate

Cosy atmosphere at the home of the

chief of the Macdonald clan and his

cookery-writer wife. A log fire burns in

the drawing room and the charming

bedrooms are individually furnished.

Sleat, Isle of Skye, IV43 8QY (on A851);

01471 833 333; http://www.kinloch-lodge.co.uk

Tigh an Dochais moderate

Sleek rooms at this spotless B&B by the

beach, with views of Broadford Bay.

Home-made bread and jam for breakfast.

13 Harrapool, Isle of Skye, IV49 9AQ;

01471 820 022; http://www.skyebedbreakfast.

co.uk; closed Dec–Feb

PLOCKTON

The Plockton Hotel moderate

This hotel sits right on the seafront in

Plockton, so try and get a room with

a view across the loch. Bedrooms are

ensuite and there’s a busy bar and

restaurant downstairs.

41 Harbour View, IV52 8TN; 01599 544

274; http://www.plocktonhotel.co.uk

6 Glencoe

Glencoe; PH49 4LA

The mountains of Glencoe, described

by Queen Victoria as: “stern, rugged,

precipitous”, are truly dramatic and

home to wildlife as varied as mountain

hares and golden eagles. But it is for

the brutal massacre of 1692 that this

sombre place is best known. Glencoe

Visitor Centre (Mar–Oct: open daily;

Nov–Feb: open Thu–Sun; http://www.nts.org.uk)

has an excellent exhibition and film

on the history and wildlife of the glen;

a viewing platform, and information

on walks and climbs in the area.

ª Follow A82 towards Fort William.

After Onich, follow signs for Corran

Ferry and cross to Ardgour. Then follow

the A861 to Salen, and take B8007 to

the Natural History Centre and car park.

BACK ROADS GREAT BRITAIN

7 Ardnamurchan Peninsula

Argyll; PH36 4JG

This remote peninsula has a wet but

mild climate and is home to a wide

array of plants and wildlife. The Natural

History Centre (Apr–Oct: open daily)

introduces visitors to the flora and

fauna with displays, remote CCTV

cameras, specially constructed pine

marten dens and a live “eagle cam”.

Continue on B8007 to Ardnamurchan

8 Armadale Castle Gardens

Armadale, Isle of Skye; IV45 8RS

Now largely ruined, the castle was

once home to members of the Clan

Donald, former rulers of this area –

Jacobite heroine Flora Macdonald was

married here. Visitors can stroll in the

Castle Gardens (Apr–Oct: open daily;

http://www.clandonald.com) and woodlands.

There’s also a Museum of the Isles

(same hours), full of history of the area

and the Clan Donald. The library helps

those tracing their family history.

ª Continue on A851 and A87 into

Broadford, then turn left onto B8083.

Follow this scenic single track road into

Elgol. Park above the harbour.

Point, generally regarded as mainland

Britain’s most westerly point. Built in

1849 and automated in 1988, the

lighthouse (Apr–Oct; 01972 510 210; http://www.

ardnamurchanlighthouse.com) is also a

museum – climb the 152 steps to the

top to enjoy glorious views. Just below

there’s also a fabulous beach at Sanna,

where the white sand is made of shells.

ª Follow B8007 back to Salen, go left

on A861 and left on A830 to Mallaig.

Take the ferry to Skye. Once on the

island, take A851 to the castle.

Right Splendid waterfall in Glencoe, scene of

the brutal massacre in 1692

Above The lush Ardnamurchan Peninsula, a

haven for Scottish wildlife

CROSSING TO SKYE

Car ferry services

The ferry crossing to Skye from Mallaig

takes about 30 minutes and is run by

Caledonian Macbrayne (08000 665

000; http://www.calmac.co.uk). The Glenelg–

Skye Ferry (Easter–Sep: runs daily

every 20 mins; http://www.calmac.co.uk)

crosses from Kylerhea to Glenelg.