Back Roads Great Britain (Eyewitness Travel Back Roads)

242 BACK ROADS GREAT BRITAIN

Where to Stay: inexpensive, under £80; moderate, £80–£150; expensive, over £150

6 Pass of Killiecrankie

Pitlochry, Perthshire; PH16 5LG

On the evening of 27 July 1689, the

wooded gorge at Killiecrankie became

a bloody battleground, when Highland

troops led by John Graham of

Claverhouse routed government

forces in the first battle of the Jacobite

rebellion. The Visitor Centre (Apr–Oct:

open daily) tells the story of the battle

and also has displays on the wildlife

and natural history of the gorge, which

looks particularly beautiful when the

trees turn russet and gold in autumn.

A path leads down to a viewpoint over

Soldier’s Leap, where a government

soldier, leapt 5.5 m (18 ft) across the

River Garry to escape the Highlanders.

ª Turn left out of car park and follow

B8079 to Blair Castle and car park.

7 Blair Castle

Blair Atholl, Pitlochry; PH18 5TL

Strategically situated to defend the

highland passes, gleaming Blair Castle

(Apr–Oct: open daily; http://www.blair-castle.

co.uk) is an imposing sight. The

ancestral home of the Dukes of Atholl,

it dates back to the 13th century, but

has been greatly expanded over the

years. In the summer, a uniformed

piper may well be playing outside –

an Atholl Highlander, the only private

army in Europe, raised by the 4th Duke

in 1778. There is lots to see here, with

items as varied as the furniture used

8 The Fortingall Yew

Fortingall, Aberfeldy; PH15 2NQ

In a corner of the churchyard stands

the Fortingall Yew: probably the

oldest living thing in Europe, it is

thought to be 5,000 years old. Legend

has it that Pontius Pilate knew this

tree, not so unlikely as his father, an

army officer, was stationed here

during the Roman occupation.

ª Continue down the road to Bridge of

Balgie and turn left to A827. Turn right,

drive through Killin, then pick up A85

towards Perth. At Lochearnhead, take

the A84, then turn right to Balquhidder.

9 Balquhidder

Perthshire; FK19 8PA

This small village is set by Loch Voil

under spectacular mountains. In its

churchyard is the grave of one of

Scotland’s most famous figures: Rob

Roy Macgregor (1671–1734). Rob Roy,

whose nickname came from his red

hair (“roy” comes from the Gaelic for

red), fought at Killiecrankie. After a

dispute with the Duke of Montrose, he

embarked on a campaign of cattle

rustling and eventually became an

outlaw. Avoiding capture, he became a

romantic hero, immortalized by writers

Sir Walter Scott and Daniel Defoe.

ª Return to A84 south to Callander

and park in the centre.

0 Callander

Callander, Stirling; FK17

Popularly known as the “gateway to

the highlands”, Callander, with its shops

and restaurants, makes an excellent

base for exploring. In the 1960s and

70s it gained fame as Tannochbrae in

the TV version of Dr Finlay’s Casebook

by AJ Cronin. Visitors can enjoy signed

walks along the River Teith and to

WHERE TO STAY

PASS OF KILLIECRANKIE

Killiecrankie House Hotel expensive

Enjoy crisp white bedlinen and tasteful

furniture at this small country hotel with

rural views and locally sourced breakfasts.

Pass of Killiecrankie, PH16 5LG; 01796

473 220; http://www.killiecrankiehotel.co.uk

CALLANDER

Arden House inexpensive

This handsome Victorian house has

comfortable, good-sized rooms.

Bracklinn Rd, FK17 8EQ; 01877 330

235; http://www.ardenhouse.org.uk

Leny Estate moderate

This peaceful estate on the edge of

Callander has six attractive, heated

lodge-style cabins and a flat in the castle.

Leny House, FK17 8HA; 01877 331 078;

http://www.lenyestate.com

Roman Camp Country House

moderate–expensive

A 17th-century hunting lodge, this

country house with wood panelling and

ornate ceilings offers traditional comforts.

Off Main Street, FK17 8BG; 01877 330

003; http://www.roman-camp-hotel.co.uk

INCHMAHOME PRIORY

Lake of Menteith Hotel expensive

This hotel looks across the water towards

Inchmahome Priory and has bright

rooms. Breakfast on Scottish produce.

Port of Menteith, FK8 3RA; 01877 385

258; http://www.lake-hotel.com

Far left Shaded woods in the gorge at the Pass of

Killicrankie Top left The magnificent white-

painted exterior of 13th-century Blair Castle

Bottom left The grave of Rob Roy bearing its

defiant motto

by Queen Victoria to an ivory compass

carried by Bonnie Prince Charlie. The

grounds include a deer park, gardens

and woods, the haunt of red squirrels.

ª Return past Killiecrankie on B8079,

then go right on the scenic B8019. At

Tummel Bridge, go left on B846 and turn

right to Fortingall. Park at the church.

VISITING CALLANDER

Tourist Information

Ancaster Square, FK17 8ED; 01877 330

342; http://www.visitscotland.co.uk