Back Roads Great Britain (Eyewitness Travel Back Roads)

(Tina Meador) #1

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Near right St John the Baptist Church at the
heart of Cirencester Far right Chedworth
Roman Villa: dining room mosaics

Above The village of Northleach, built of traditional Cotswold stone

VISITING CIRENCESTER
Parking
There are plenty of car parks close to
the centre of town and Market Square.
Tourist information
Corinium Museum, Park St, GL7 2BX;
01285 654 180; http://www.cotswold.gov.uk

BACK ROADS GREAT BRITAIN


2 Chedworth Roman Villa
Yanworth, Gloucestershire; GL54 3LJ
Nestled amid woods, this absorbing
site, discovered in 1864, displays part
of the bath houses and dining areas
of a substantial Romano-British villa

3 Northleach
Gloucestershire; GL54 3ET
This unassuming village has
one of the finest Cotswold
“wool churches”. The oldest
parts of St Peter and St Paul
date from around 1300, and
on the floor, brasses show
merchants, with sheep, woolpacks
and many children. Look out for the
carved corbels (stone brackets) in the
porch, depicting such images as
angels and a cat playing a fiddle. On
the High St, Keith Harding’s World of
Mechanical Music (open daily) is well
worth a visit, displaying an array of
period pieces, ably explained and
demonstrated on a guided tour.
ª Take the A429 following signs for
Stow-on-the-Wold and Bourton-on-
the-Water. Park off Rissington Road.

1 Cirencester
Gloucestershire; GL7 2BX
This compact, relaxed market town’s
importance in Roman Britain – it was
the second largest town – is revealed
in the superb Corinium Museum (open
daily; Sun closed am). The town kept its
wealth in the medieval era, as can be
seen in the huge church of St
John the Baptist – the south
porch with fan vaulting dates
to 1490. The church dominates
Market Square, home to one
of the biggest markets in the
Cotswolds. Visit New Brewery
Arts (open daily) for galleries,
shops, events and workshops.
ª Follow the A429 (Stow Road) north
towards Stow-in-the-Wold for about
8 km (5 miles). Turn left at the signpost
for Chedworth Roman Villa, then
continue to follow the signs to the villa
and the on-site car park.

Stone relief,
Corinium Museum

(closed Mon) inhabited from the 2nd
to 4th centuries AD. Vivid mosaics,
underfloor heating systems, plunge
pools and the latrine, can be seen
while audioguides fill in the history.
The grounds make a nice picnic area.
ª Follow signs for Yanworth, then for
Northleach. Park in the centre of town.

WHERE TO STAY

CIRENCESTER
The Fleece Hotel moderate
This rambling old inn at the heart of
town makes an atmospheric place to
stay. The rooms are on the small side,
but functional and pleasant. There are
two restaurants, and a patio for drinks.
Market Place, GL7 2NZ; 01285 658 507;
http://www.fleecehotel.co.uk
BOURTON-ON-THE-WATER
Chester House Hotel moderate
This small, traditional-looking hotel has
a relaxed atmosphere with modern
décor and genial staff. Rooms are all
fresh and airy, some with four-poster
beds. Family rooms are also available.
Victoria St, GL54 2BU; 01451 820 286;
http://www.chesterhousehotel.com
STOW-ON-THE-WOLD
The Limes inexpensive
Simple Victorian B&B run by a friendly
young couple on the northern
outskirts of Stow, on the A424 (a
5-minute walk from the centre). There
are five guest rooms and a lovely
garden with a fishpond and aviary.
Evesham Rd, GL54 1EJ; 01451 830 034
Stow Lodge Hotel moderate
Country-style accommodation in the
heart of Stow, with a perfectly groomed
garden overlooking the main square,
good food, and a comfortable lounge
with a log fire..
The Square, GL54 1AB; 01451 830 485;
http://www.stowlodgehotel.co.uk

MORETON-IN-MARSH
Redesdale Arms inexpensive
This old coaching inn has cosy log fires
and well-equipped rooms with clean,
modern bathrooms. Breakfasts are
excellent and tasty meals are served
in the bar or restaurant.
High St, GL56 OAW; 01608 650 308;
http://www.redesdalearms.com
Manor House Hotel expensive
Old but charming and well-maintained,
this hotel on the main street has period
furniture and modern fixtures. Staff are
courteous and attentive, and Mulberry’s
Restaurant rustles up first-class meals.
High St, GL56 OLJ; 01608 650 501;
http://www.cotswold-inns-hotels.co.uk

Where to Stay: inexpensive, under £80; moderate, £80–£150; expensive, over £150
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