march 16–29, 2020 | new york 51
CAFFÈ PANNA’S
Affogato Sundae
The smooth, classically French dinnertime omelet is a surprisingly rare
occurrence these days, and the one found at this bountiful new brasserie is a
veritable dissertation on the joys of old-fashioned technique, texture, and taste.
LE CROCODILE’S
LEKKA BURGER’S
Cheese Fries
This “cheese” sauce is completely vegan:
It’s butter beans, oats, and agave, blitzed in
a food processor. They could sell tubs of it, but
until then, the best place to find it is drizzled over
some classic crinkle-cut fries.
On paper, combining the wanton excess
of the American ice-cream sundae with the
espresso-laced gentility of the Italian affogato
sounds very wrong; in the cup, amid
the drizzles, swirls, and crunch, it tastes
lip-smackingly, mind-bogglingly right.
THE FULTON’S
Black Sea Bass en
Croute
Leave it to Jean-Georges Vongerichten to revive
this culinary anachronism, which is locally
sourced, technically perfect, lovely to look at (the
pastry is fashioned with a smiling fish face and
fins), and, most important, delicious to eat.
HAO NOODLE’S
Dan Dan Noodles
Bowlfuls arrive slicked with pork fat and seasoned
with sieved Sichuan pepper, imparting more of a
faint buzz than an obliterating numbness. All the
better to perceive creamy sesame, pungent garlic,
pickled vegetables, and the bite of scallion and chile.
TÉ COMPANY’S
Taiwanese Braised
Pork Over Rice
It’s not just the taste of Frederico Ribeiro’s lu rou
fan—salty-sweet braised local pork belly, deftly
cooked California sushi rice, pickled daikon,
an optional tea-steeped egg—that differentiates it;
it’s the way it perfectly suits its serene
Taiwanese-tea-parlor setting.
BEST of NEW YORK
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march16–29, 2020 | newyork 51
CAFFÈPANNA’S
AffogatoSundae
Thesmooth,classicallyFrenchdinnertimeomeletis a surprisinglyrare
occurrencethesedays,andtheonefoundat thisbountifulnew brasserie is a
veritabledissertationonthejoysofold-fashionedtechnique,texture,and taste.
LE CROCODILE’S
LEKKABURGER’S
CheeseFries
This “cheese” sauce is completely vegan:
It’s butter beans, oats, and agave, blitzed in
a food processor. They could sell tubs of it, but
until then, the best place to find it is drizzled over
someclassiccrinkle-cut fries.
On paper, combining th excess
of the American ice-cream sun e with the
espresso-laced gentility of the Italian affogato
g; in the cup, amid
andcrunch, it tastes
d-bogglingly right.
THEFULTON’S
BlackSeaBassen
Croute
Leave it to Jean-Georges Vongerichten to revive
this culinary anachronism, which is locally
sourc
past
fin
HAO NOODLE’S
Dan Dan Noodles
Bowlfuls arriv at and seasoned
with sieved Sichuan pepper, imparting more of a
faint buzz than an obliterating numbness. All the
bettertoperceivecreamy sesame, pungent garlic,
pickledvegetables,andthebiteofscallion and chile.
TÉ COMPANY’S
Taiwanese Braised
Pork Over Rice
It’s not just iro’s lu rou
fan—salt k belly, deftly
cooked California sushi rice, pickled daikon,
an optional tea-steeped egg—that differentiates it;
it’s the way it perfectly suits its serene
Taiwanese-tea-parlor setting.
BEST of NEW YORK