New_York_Magazine_-_March_16_2020

50 new york | march 16–29, 2020

Never mind the bellyachers who say you can’t get a good muffuletta

outside of New Orleans. John Ratliff squelches that noise by curing his

own salumi. And this might be the only whole-animal salumeria that

makes its own muffuletta loaves and olive salad.

ENDS MEAT’S

BARNEY GREENGRASS’S

LEO

Philip Roth extolled the virtues of the lox, eggs,

and onion, which the writer called “more

American than apple pie.” That holy trinity has for

years been a beacon that draws the madding

crowd for an Olde New York brunch.

ESTELA’S

Tartare

A humble-looking mound of diced grass-fed bison

plus crushed sunchoke chips, subtly ceviche-fied

with lemon, fish sauce, and pickled elderberries,

that conceals a remarkable complexity of flavor and

texture. Devotees order two portions at once.

BREADS BAKERY’S

Chocolate

Babka

On the New York babka continuum, all loaves

can be categorized as BB (before Breads) or AB

(after Breads). Technically, Breads’ is Israeli

krantz cake, made using laminated dough veined

with Nutella and brushed with sugar syrup.

The comparison is almost unfair.

LA GRENOUILLE’S

Dover Sole

For maximum effect, enjoy this regal dish at

lunchtime, when the flowers are still fresh, light

fills the peach-hued room, and there’s plenty of

time to enjoy your buttery, deboned slips of sole

with an extra bottle of Champagne.

Russets are rubbed with olive oil, stuffed with

raclette, salt-baked, and topped with crème

fraîche, pickled peppers, and a supercolossal

cube of double-smoked bacon. Cut into

the thing and melted cheese oozes out like the

center of a molten chocolate cake.

MEKELBURG’S

Baked Potato

when to get it BREAKFAST BRUNCH LUNCH SNACK DINNER LATE-NIGHT DESSERT GROCERY

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50 newyork| march16–29, 2020

Nevermindthebellyacherswhosay youcan’t geta goodmuffuletta

outsideofNew Orleans.JohnRatliffsquelchesthat noisebycuringhis

ownsalumi.Andthismightbetheonlywhole-animalsalumeriathat

makesitsownmuffulettaloavesandolivesalad.

ENDSMEAT’S

BARNEYGREENGRASS’S

LEO

and onion, which the writer called more

Americanthanapplepie.”Thatholytrinity has for

yearsbeena beaconthatdrawsthe madding

crowdforanOldeNew Yorkbrunch.

ESTELA’S

Tartare

withlemon,fishsauce,andpickledelderberries,

thatconcealsa remarkablecomplexity of flavorand

texture.Devoteesordertwoportions at once.

BREADSBAKERY’S

Chocolate

Babka

On the New York babka continuum, all loaves

can be categorized as BB (before Breads) or AB

(after Breads). Technically, Breads’ is Israeli

krantz cake, made using laminated dough veined

with Nutella and brushed with sugar syrup.

The comparison is almost unfair.

LA GRENOUILLE’S

Dover Sole

For maximum effect, enjoy this regal dish at

lunchtime, when the flowers are still fresh, light

fillsthepeach-huedroom,and there’s plenty of

timetoenjoyyourbuttery, deboned slips of sole

withanextra bottleofChampagne.

Russets are rubbed with ,

raclette, salt-baked, and topped with crème

fraîche, pickled peppers, and a supercolossal

cube of double-smoked bacon. Cut into

thethingandmeltedcheeseoozesout like the

centerofa moltenchocolatecake.

MEKELBURG’S

Baked Potato

whentogetit BREAKFAST BRUNCH LUNCH SNACK DINNER LATE-NIGHT DESSERT GROCERY