Delicious Australia – (12)December 2018

WE SHOULD REALLYrename December‘meringue month’,
becauseit’swhenrecipesearchesforpavlovas,meringuenests,
meringuesheetsandevenjusteverydaymeringuesky-rocket.
Of all culinary techniques, meringue is right up there with cakes
andmayonnaise(whichalsobenefitfromthepropertiesofeggs)
for the most miraculous of transformations. How can something so
fluffyandglossycomeoutoftheovensostrongandset?Thereis
somethingmagicaboutmeringue:howitcancapturebubblesof
air,howitcanbechewyorcrisp,howitcanbemousse-likeinan
Aussiepavlova.Hereare(justsomeof)mythoughtsonmeringues.
MERINGUE 101There are three different ways of making
meringues:French,ItalianandSwiss.Themostcommonisthe
basicFrenchmethod,wherecoldeggwhitesatthesoft-peak
stagearefurtherwhippedwithcoldsugaradded.TheItalian
methodhasyouwhiskingtheeggwhitesasyoudribbleinahot
(115°C)sugarsyrupforamorestableandrobustresult–ideal
forpiping,torching,astoppingonalemonmeringuepie,or
tocoverabakedAlaska.TheSwissmethodinvolveswhisking
theeggwhitesandsugaroverapanofhotwateruntilthe
temperaturereachesabout50°C,thenwhiskingituntilit’scool
–perfectforfrostingcakes and makingyakitori meringues.
What?Ihearyouask.
YAK ITORI MERINGUEis a hot new thing replacing meringue
shards and torched plumes of meringue on trendy desserts.
Skeweredmeringuemayallbeabit‘sowhat?’forthosewho
make their pavs in the barbecue, but I suppose toasting Swiss
meringueonastickissimilartotoastingmarshmallowsthesame
way.Anyway,Ireckonit’sthe‘liquidpuffpastry’of2018.
MERINGUESHARDSareslowlybeingleftbehind,backinthe
mistsoftheTurnbullera(alongwith‘soils’,‘thesmear’andthose
disgusting soul patch ‘beards’). These once trendy shaped
meringuesheetswereflavouredwithsomethingrobust,likepink
peppercorns, rosemary or lavender, to match all the sugar.
Whynotmakethemforyournextretro-themeddinnerpartyby
spreadingoutalayerofyourfavouritemeringueonasiliconemat.
Bakeinalow,slowovenandleavetodryoutinthecoolingoven.
THE RECIPEAnd while we are on meringue desserts, let me
introducethismonth’soffering,whichcrashestheflavourof
BlackForestgateauintothatfineNewZealanddessert,the
pavlova(whichnoonewouldhaveeverheardaboutifAustralia
hadn’t adopted it and championed it around the world).
ThekirschcherriesbringaboozyflavourofNorthernChristmas
to the Aussie summer. Combining them with plump new-season

In awe of meringue’s transformative powers, senior editor

Matt Preston celebrates its many guises and adaptations.

WHYILOVEA

KITCHEN MIRACLE

INDIVIDUAL CHEWY BLACK FOREST MERINGUES

MAKES 6

130g dark (70%) chocolate, plus extra finely grated to serve

6 eggwhites

300g caster sugar

60gAmarenacherries(smallcherriesinsyrup–fromgood

grocers),plus^1 / 4 cup (60ml) Amarena cherry syrup,

plus extra syrup to serve

300mlthickened cream, whipped

200gfreshorfrozencherries

Toasted flaked almonds and tarragon leaves, to serve

Preheattheovento120°C.Line2bakingtrayswithbakingpaper.

Chop80gchocolate.Fillasmallsaucepanone-thirdfullwith

waterandbringtoagentlesimmer.Placechoppedchocolatein

asmallheatproofbowlsetoverpan(don’tletthebowltouch

thewater)andstiruntilchocolateismelted.Removefromheat.

Tomakethemeringue,placeeggwhitesinastandmixerfitted

with the whisk attachment and whisk to soft peaks. Gradually

addthesugar,whiskinguntilallsugarisdissolved.Gentlyswirl

meltedchocolateintomeringue–donotmixitin.Spoon3large

spoonfulsofmeringue,3cmapart,overeachpreparedtray.Using

thespoon,pressasmallwellintothetopofeachmeringuefor

fillinglater.Bakefor1houroruntildrytothetouch.Removefrom

the oven, cool completely, then transfer to serving platters.

Meltremaining 50g chocolate and stir through cherry syrup.

Dividecreamamongmeringuewells.TopwithAmarenaand

freshcherries,andscatterwithalmonds,tarragonandextragrated

chocolate. Drizzle with chocolate cherry syrup and extra cherry

syrup to serve. PHOTOGRAPHY

NIGEL LOUGH

STYLING

KIRSTEN JENKINS

MERCHANDISING

EMMALY STEWART

fruitoffersenoughacidity,juicyfreshnessandbrightnessto

balance the richness and sweetness of cream and meringue.

Ofcourse,thebigquestionremains:wouldmeringueshave

been as successful if they had kept their Olde English name, ‘pet’?

Thiswasgiventothembecausetheyweresolightandairy,

apparently,whichisfairenough.Thetroubleis,theword‘pet’

comes from the French and Dutch word for ‘fart’. Not sure how

many‘Frenchfarts’you’dsell!

Ifallthishasyouwantingmoreofmymaterialonmeringue,

head to delicious.com.au to get my take on the history of this

magical dessert, plus other mouthwatering ways to serve it.

58 delicious.com.au