Australian Gourmet Traveller - (01)January 2021 (1)

S

outhAustralia’swinecountryis

dottedwithquirkyrestaurants,

hipstercellardoors,andrustic

spotsamongthevines.Seppeltsfield

is bestdescribedasgrand.Youdrive

throughsweeping,palm-linedavenues

togetthere.ThehistoricSeppeltsfield

estateis nowa village– thefamous

JamFactoryis here,withstudios,

a galleryanda shop.There’sthe

venerableCentennialCellar,

a sophisticatedtastingroom,and

beautifulgroundswhereyoucan

picnic.Orgetmarried.It callsitself,

withjusta littlepomp, a “wine, food,

andartparadise”.

Andthenthere’sFino.Crunch

acrossthegravel,pastsandstone

wallscoveredincreepingfig,a water

feature,andthroughtopiarised,

ancientvines.Surroundedbyallthe

history of the estate you’ll find a fresh,

contemporary,breezywelcome.

Anda damnfinefeed.

PeopleworryeverytimeFino

doessomethingnew– movingfrom

Willunga,andopeningupinAdelaide’s

CBD.DavidSwainandSharonRomeo

havenotbeenafraidtoshakethings

up.Luckilyit seemstokeepworking

out.Thefoodis dependablysurprising

andconsistentlyseasonal.

If there’sanywhereyouwantto

trustwitha “feedme”option,it’shere.

Thestaffdothatlittlemagicdance

wheretheychata bitthenconjureup

exactlywhatyoufeltlike,anddeliver

it ina rhythmthatfeelseffortless.

WhenGourmetTravellervisited,

asparagus(local,ofcourse)wasatits

peak.Springyandcharryandserved

witha perfectlytexturedgribiche,dill,

anda skinnyanchovythatwasso

smooth it must have had someone

You’llalwaysmeeta warmwelcomeatthis

Seppeltsfield eatery, writesTORY SHEPHERD.

Clockwisefromleft:Fino’sopenkitchen;

BrusselssproutsandKinkawookamussels;

cremaCatalana.Opposite:naturaltextures

combine in Fino’s dining room.

atit withtweezers.Thegiardiniera

waselevatedbypickledcaperleaves.

Therearepillowymoundsof

gnocchiwithglobeartichoke.A flaky

yellowfinwhitingcomeswithrock

samphireandwakame,whichgive

theotherwiseslightlybland fish a bit

ofsnapandsizzle.

Bythetimetheporkcomesout

• Hampshirepork,withcracklingyou
  couldeatuntilyourheartgaveout


• we’restartingtofeelwell-sated.We
  bravelysoldieron,cuttingthroughthe
  fatwitha nerod’Avolaanda sangiovese.
  Thewinelistis oneofthestate’sbest,
  sopickthewinepairingoptionunless
  youhaveyourheartsetonsomething.
  Wetacklethewagyubrisket,where
  thefatcontentshowsthecow’s
  contentedness.Thewaistbandmay
  bestraining,butthere’senoughroom
  forcheese,andthestaffare always
  happy to let you linger.●

TH

ED

ESTINAT

IO

N

Barossa

Valley,SA

FINO FETTLE

36 GOURMET TRAVELLER

Review

PHOTOGRAPHY SAM NOONAN (FINO), BEN

Mc

GEE (DISHES) & JOSIE WITHERS (TABLE).