Food & Wine USA - (03)March 2019

Meet the pastry chef who combines nostalgia,

seasonality, and whimsy to reimagine desserts

and create culinary works of art.

A MAKER WHO’S

REWRITING THE

RECIPE

• 
  

BROUGHT TO YOU BY KITCHENAID

Brown Butter-Apple Cake

4

1¾

¾

6

6

1½

1

½

¾

Fold the

meringue in

at the last

minute

to lighten

the batter

for a

tender

cake.

I learned this trick from a cupcake baker.

CLASSIC APPLE

FLAVORS REIMAGINED

SERVES 16; ACTIVE 1 HOUR; TOTAL 4 HOURS

If the^ cake^ is^ properly^ baked,^ cooling^ it

covered will result in the moistest crumb.

THOMAS RAQUEL

EXECUTIVE PASTRY CHEF,

LE BERNARDIN, NYC

Pastry chef Thomas Raquel has
made a name for himself by
putting inventive new twists on
dessert. “I think one of the most
iconic dishes I’ve made at Le
Bernardin is The Apple,” he says.
When presented, the dessert
looks like a Honeycrisp apple
plucked straight from a tree.
But a spoon, not a knife, slices
through to reveal brown butter
mousse, roasted apple, and
caramel confit—classic flavors,
completely reimagined.

Raquel’s sweet creations at Le
Bernardin look like works of
art, but each, he says, should
incorporate seasonal ingredients,
a touch of whimsy, and most
importantly, a sense of familiarity.
For him, flavors can evoke a
special kind of connection:
to our friends, to our families,
to our memories. His earliest
recollections of food go back
to the hours he spent in the
kitchen alongside his Filipino

grandmother. “She loved making

flan, so I always find myself

yearning for it,” he explains.

Raquel believes the inspiration

to explore new dishes and ideas

is sparked by those personal

connections. So, for his Brown

Butter-Apple Cake, reimagined

here for the home cook, he drew

on childhood memories of his

favorite apple pie and tarte tatin.

In Raquel’s kitchen, creativity

comes from nodding to the classics,

and then rewriting the recipe.

CHEF PORTRAIT: ANTHONY TAHLIER; FOOD IMAGE: VICTOR PROTASIO;

FOOD STYLIST: ANNA HAMPTON; PROP STYLIST: HEATHER CHADDUCK

Cooking spray

large egg whites

cups granulated sugar, divided

cup unsalted butter, browned and cooled to

room temperature

Tbsp. apple butter

large egg yolks

cups all-purpose flour, sifted

Tbsp. baking powder

tsp. fine sea salt

cup crème fraîche or sour cream

Powdered sugar, for dusting

Caramel apples and vanilla ice cream,

for serving

1. Preheat oven to 325°F. Coat a 13- x 9-
   inch pan with cooking spray and line with
   parchment, leaving a 2-inch overhang on
   the long sides. Spray parchment.


2. In a stand mixer fitted with a whisk
   attachment, beat egg whites at medium
   speed until frothy. With mixer running, slowly
   add ¾ cup sugar. Increase speed to high,
   and beat to medium peaks. Scrape meringue
   into a small bowl and refrigerate.


3. Return bowl to mixer fitted with paddle
   attachment. Cream together the cooled
   brown butter, apple butter, and remaining
   1 cup of sugar at medium-low speed until
   light and fluffy, about 2 minutes.
   Add yolks, one at a time, beating to
   fully incorporate between additions.
   Reduce speed to low and, in two
   additions, add flour, baking powder,
   and salt, scraping down sides. Fold in
   crème fraîche until streaky, then
   gently fold in meringue until fully
   incorporated.

4. Scrape batter into prepared pan and

smooth top. Bake in preheated oven 45

to 50 minutes, rotating once, until a cake

tester comes out clean. Remove cake

from oven; place on a wire rack. Top with

a baking sheet to trap steam. Let covered

cake cool completely, about 2 hours.

5. Remove cake from pan, and dust

with powdered sugar. Serve with caramel

apples and vanilla ice cream.

Apple butter lends a more concentrated flavor

than fresh apples or applesauce.

Tan

gy (^) c
rème
(^) fra
îche
(^)
(^) add
s (^) ric
hnes
s.