Food & Wine USA - (04)April 2019

(Comicgek) #1

Pear Crostata


PHOTO AT LEFT


ACTIVE 45 MIN; TOTAL 10 HR 30 MIN
SERVES 10


Firm pears are the key to this impressive
dessert; look for a thin layer of green
under the skin as you peel them.


11 /^3 cups all-purpose flour (about 5^3 /^4
oz.)


11 / 4 tsp. kosher salt, divided


(^1) / (^2) cup unsalted butter (4 oz.), chilled
and cut into^1 / 2 -inch pieces, divided
1 large egg
1 Tbsp. dry marsala wine
(^3) / 4 cup plus 1 Tbsp. light brown sugar,
divided
2 Tbsp. ice water
2 tsp. fresh lemon juice
(^3) / 4 tsp. ground cinnamon
(^3) / 4 tsp. ground ginger
33 / 4 lb. firm Bosc pears (about 7 large
pears), peeled, cored, and
quartered



  1. Combine flour and 1 teaspoon salt in a
    medium bowl. Using your fingers, incor-
    porate 6 tablespoons butter pieces into
    flour mixture until mixture resembles
    small peas. Whisk together egg, marsala,
    and 1 tablespoon brown sugar in a small
    bowl. Add egg mixture to flour mixture;
    stir with a fork until incorporated. Stir in 1
    tablespoon ice water, adding remaining 1
    tablespoon ice water if needed, 1 tea-
    spoon at a time, until a shaggy dough
    forms. Shape dough into a disk; wrap
    tightly in plastic wrap, and chill at least 1
    hour or up to 8 hours.

  2. Place remaining^3 / 4 cup brown sugar in a
    12-inch ovenproof sauté pan. Cook over
    medium, stirring occasionally with a
    wooden spoon, until melted and smooth,
    about 6 minutes. Reduce heat to medium-
    low, and stir in lemon juice, cinnamon, gin-
    ger, remaining 2 tablespoons butter, and
    remaining^1 / 4 teaspoon salt until well com-
    bined. Add pears; cook, stirring and bast-
    ing occasionally, until pears are softened
    and liquid is syrupy, 20 to 30 minutes.
    Remove from heat; let cool slightly, about
    30 minutes.

  3. Meanwhile, preheat oven to 350°F. On a
    lightly floured surface, roll dough into a
    12-inch (about^1 / 4 -inch-thick) circle, trim-
    ming edges if needed. Chill 30 minutes.

  4. Carefully arrange pears, outsides of
    wedges facing down and slightly overlap-
    ping, in concentric circles in sauté pan.
    Top with dough, tucking edges in around
    pears. Cut 5 slits in dough to allow steam
    to escape. Bake in preheated oven until
    top is golden brown, 35 to 40 minutes.


Cool in pan on a wire rack 10 minutes.
Carefully invert onto a rimmed plate.
Serve warm or at room temperature.
WINE Lightly sweet Moscato: 2017
Cascinetta Vietti Moscato d’Asti

Stewed Chicken Legs and
Thighs with Fresh Herbs and
Olives
PHOTO P. 85
ACTIVE 40 MIN; TOTAL 7 HR 55 MIN
SERVES 4

Castelvetrano olives and capers team up
to deliver a salty, briny finish to this mel-
low chicken dish. Shop your grocery
store’s olive bar for the best selection, and
have some good bread on hand for sop-
ping up the sauce. Don’t be daunted by
the prep time that goes into this recipe:
Try making the marinade the night before,
then add the chicken the following morn-
ing for a main course that can be cooked
in only 40 minutes that night.

BRINE
1 Tbsp. coriander seeds
1 tsp. fennel seeds
2 cups water
1 small (8-oz.) white onion, thinly
sliced (about 1^1 / 2 cups)
1 medium garlic head, cloves
smashed (about^1 /^2 cup)
3 Tbsp. kosher salt
1 lb. ice
CHICKEN
4 skin-on chicken drumsticks
4 bone-in, skin-on chicken thighs
1 Tbsp. kosher salt

(^1) / 4 cup olive oil, divided
(^1) / 2 cup dry white wine, divided
4 garlic cloves, thinly sliced (about 2
Tbsp.)
6 anchovy fillets, chopped (about 1
Tbsp.)
2 small white onions (about 1 lb.),
quartered, root bottoms attached
4 thyme sprigs
6 medium pitted Castelvetrano
olives, chopped (about^1 / 4 cup)
1 Tbsp. drained nonpareil capers
2 Tbsp. chopped fresh flat-leaf
parsley
2 Tbsp. torn fresh basil



  1. Make the brine: Combine coriander
    seeds and fennel seeds in a small skillet.
    Cook over medium-high, stirring often,
    until toasted and fragrant, about 1 minute
    and 30 seconds. Transfer seeds to a large
    pot. Add 2 cups water, onion, garlic, and
    salt. Bring to a boil over high; reduce heat


to medium-low, and simmer until flavors
meld, about 15 minutes. Remove from
heat, and add ice. Let stand until ice is
melted and brine has cooled completely,
about 30 minutes.


  1. Make the chicken: Place chicken
    drumsticks and thighs in brine. Cover and
    chill at least 6 hours or up to 12 hours.
    Remove chicken from brine, and transfer
    to a paper towel–lined baking sheet; dis-
    card brine. Pat chicken dry, and sprinkle
    with salt.

  2. Heat 2 tablespoons oil in a large
    (5-quart) Dutch oven over medium-high.
    Add 4 pieces of chicken, and cook, turn-
    ing occasionally, until browned and fat is
    rendered, about 10 minutes. Transfer to a
    plate, and repeat with remaining 4
    chicken pieces. Return all browned
    chicken to Dutch oven, and arrange in a
    single layer. Add^1 / 4 cup wine, garlic, and
    anchovies. Scatter onions over chicken.
    Cook until wine has mostly evaporated, 2
    to 3 minutes, shaking Dutch oven occa-
    sionally to ensure chicken isn’t sticking.
    Add thyme sprigs and remaining^1 / 4 cup
    wine. Cover and reduce heat to medium-
    low. Cook until chicken is tender and an
    instant-read thermometer inserted in
    thickest portion registers 165°F, 30 to 40
    minutes.

  3. Remove chicken from heat, and top
    with olives, capers, and remaining 2
    tablespoons olive oil. Cover and let stand
    5 minutes. Place 1 drumstick and 1 thigh
    on each serving plate. Drizzle chicken
    with pan juices, and sprinkle with parsley
    and basil.
    WINE Nutty, citrusy Tuscan white: 2017 Al
    Podere di Rosa Chiesino Bianco


APRIL 2019 89


The author (middle) among the vines at
Cantina del Barone in Campania.
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