48 MAY 2020
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WHETHER GRILLED, baked, broiled, or served as tar-
tare, salmon fillets have long been the favorite fish
in America. They’re rich-tasting, easy to prepare,
and packed with omega-3s.
As much as I love salmon fillets, on a recent trip
to Alaska I learned about additional cuts of salmon
that offer unique flavor and texture. When you start
with a whole fish, smart butchering gives you not
just those fillets, but succulent collars, meaty steaks,
tartare-like spoon meat, and a juicy tail. These parts,
although unknown to most grocery store–shopping
home cooks, are well-known to the folks who break
down the fish, as I learned from fisherman and wild
salmon expert Marsh Skeele.
From Skeele, cofounder and vice president of Sitka
Salmon Shares (a cooperative of Alaskan fishermen
that offers a monthly fish subscription), I also
learned how sustainably caught wild salmon is the
best choice on all fronts: flavor, sustainability, and
for your health.THE NEW CUTS ON THE (BUTCHER) BLOCK
TAIL
Wild salmon tails cook
quickly and don’t have pin
bones, making for an easy
yet dramatic presentation.
With a large knife, cut off the
salmon tail and the narrow-
est 6 to 8 inches of the fillet.SPOON MEAT
After filleting thawed frozen
wild salmon, use a spoon to
scrape the excess meat from
the bones and belly area.
Use spoon meat immedi-
ately, refrigerate up to four
hours before serving, or
refreeze once (transfer to
a resealable plastic freezer
bag, and flatten to remove
the air and ensure quick
refreezing). Defrost in the
refrigerator, and use as soon
as meat is thawed.BUTCHERY TIPS
Use the guide below to butcher a whole fish, or ask your
fishmonger to make these cuts for you. And while I’ve designed
the recipes that follow with specific cuts in mind (wild Alaskan
salmon like sockeye and coho are leaner than farm-raised, so
it benefits from careful preparation), each can be prepared with
fillets in a pinch. For more information on the benefits of wild
salmon, visit alaskaseafood.org. —JUSTIN CHAPPLEFW_0520_Handbook.indd 48 FINAL 3/17/20 3:48 PM