vegeats
68 VegNews SUMMER 2019
Stunning plates dazzle diners at Planta South Beach.Mushrooms and magic
Planta's flagship location in Toronto has
been wowing patrons since 2016. And
now, here at the restaurant’s only US
outpost, Planta South Beach is aiming
to position fresh, local, plant-based
fare as a force to be reckoned with in
the Miami food scene. Familiar fare
like juicy burgers and thin-crust pizzas
trickle from the kitchen, but Planta
South Beach really shines with Chef de
Cuisine Benjamin Goldman’s lighter,
brighter creations—most notable being
the popular sushi menu. Thin slices
of cured watermelon sub for ahi tuna,
while artfully arranged, marinated
slices of carrot and celeriac pass for
fresh nigiri. Instead of masago—a bright
orange fish roe used to add a splash of
color and texture to sushi—chefs employ
a judicious scattering of puffed quinoa.
Each piece is dazzling, with pure flavors
ready to be bumped up with fresh
wasabi and truffle-infused soy.
Throughout the rest of the menu,
patrons are all but guaranteed to
come across Planta’s secret weapon—
mushrooms—in different guises. Rich,
musky shiitakes are stuffed into tender
dumplings before being steamed and
napped in a scarlet chili oil that provides
a streak of intensity without being too
fiery. A goji berry garnish adds a subtle
sweet-tart element.
The seasonal trofie pasta—little twists
tossed with truffled mushroom bolognese
and served with a generous dusting of
vegan parmesan—is another mushroom-
lover’s meal. No surprise: it’s hearty,
rich, and, while perhaps better suited to
wintry Toronto than South Beach, a hit
with diners.
Planta's singature pizzas also get the
'shroom treatment with the Frenchie.
This is no Italian pie; earthy mushroom
pâté stands in for tomato sauce, before
being topped with caramelized winter
squash, cashew mozzarella, and a
dressing of delicate arugula. The pâté
provides a deep umami backdrop that
allows the silky housemade cheese and
soft bites of sweet squash to shine,
while the peppery arugula adds a pop
of green and a welcomed lightness.
Eat, drink, and be comfortable
Despite greens on the pizza and a few
salads on the menu, Planta isn’t about
nutrient density. It’s not even about
vegan (although everything is plant-
based)—it’s about delivering comfort
food and a good time, and it nails both.
Case in point, Planta’s famed cauliflower
tots, which more than earn their
cult following. These little fried orbs
have a crust that yields with a gentle
bite, revealing warm, fluffy whipped
cauliflower inside. The only downside is
they disappear way too fast—you won’t
receive a basket brimming with them, butinstead, five perfected morsels dusted
in truffled almond parmesan and dotted
with lemon aioli. Be sure to make use
of the lemon wedge served alongside; a
squeeze cuts through the richness and
brings brightness and balance.
Even old-school lettuce wraps taste new.
Crispy, fried cauliflower florets are tossed
in Korean barbecue sauce, kicked into
high gear with kimchi, then balanced with
tofu, pickled cucumber, Thai basil, nori,
and sesame, while tender lettuce leaves
provide natural cups for scooping. Each bite
is warming, cooling, and—who knew you
could feel this way about lettuce wraps?—
kind of thrilling.