Rajasthan
WESTERN
R AJASTHAN
Rajasthan
TOURS
Rajasthan
JA iSA lMER
devotional use. Steps lead down to the Gyan ̈
Bhandar, a fascinating, tiny, underground
library founded in 1500, which houses price-
less ancient illustrated manuscripts. The
remaining two temples, Shantinath and
Kunthunath, were built in 1536 and feature
plenty of sensual carving. Note, the restric-
tive visiting times are for non-Jains. The tem-
ples are open all day for worshippers.
̈ ̈Laxminarayan Temple
The Hindu Laxminarayan Temple, in the
centre of the fort, is simpler than the Jain
temples and has a brightly decorated dome.
Devotees offer grain, which is distributed
before the temple. The inner sanctum has
a repoussé silver architrave around its en-
trance, and a heavily garlanded image en-
shrined within.
Havelis
Inside the fort but outside it, too (especially
in the streets to the north), Jaisalmer is re-
plete with the fairy-tale architecture of hav-
elis – gorgeously carved stone doorways,
jali (carved lattice) screens, balconies and
turrets.
Patwa-ki-Haveli ̈ HiSTORiC BU il DiNG
(indian/foreigner ₹20/50; h10am-5pm) The
biggest fish in the haveli pond is Patwa-ki-
Haveli, which towers over a narrow lane,
its intricate stonework like honey-coloured
lace. It is divided into five sections and
was built between 1800 and 1860 by five
Jain brothers who made their fortunes in
brocade and jewellery. It’s most impressive
from the outside, though the first of the five
sections is open as the privately owned Ko-
thari’s ̈ Patwa-ki-Haveli ̈ Museum (indian/
foreigner ₹50/150, camera/video ₹50/70), which
richly evokes 19th-century life. Touts in the
lane outside can be a pain here.
Nathmal-ki-Haveli ̈ HiSTORiC BU il DiNG
(h8am-7pm) This late-19th-century haveli
also used to be a prime minister’s house
and is still partly inhabited. It also contains
some tourist shops. It has an extraordinary
exterior, dripping with carvings, and the 1st
floor has some beautiful paintings using
1.5kg of gold. A doorway is surrounded by
19th-century British postcards and there’s a
picture of Queen Victoria. The left and right
wings were the work of two brothers, whose
competitive spirits apparently produced this
virtuoso work – the two sides are similar, but
not identical.
Museums
Desert ̈Cultural ̈Centre ̈& ̈Museum ̈MUSEUM
(indian/foreigner ₹20/50, camera/video ₹20/50,
puppet shows indian/foreigner ₹30/50, camera/
video ₹20/50, combined museum-show ticket ₹70;
h9am-8pm, puppet shows 6.30pm, 7.30pm) Next
to the Tourist Reception Centre, this inter-
esting little museum has material on the his-
tory of Rajasthan’s different princely states,
and exhibits on traditional Rajasthani cul-
ture. Features include Rajasthani music
(with video), textiles and a phad scroll paint-
ing. It also hosts nightly half-hour puppet ̈
shows with English commentary.Thar ̈Heritage ̈Museum ̈ MUSEUM
(off Court Rd; admission ₹40) This privately run
museum near Gandhi Chowk has an intrigu-
ing assortment of Jaisalmer area artefacts.
It’s brought alive by the guided tour you’ll
probably get from its founder, local historian
and folklorist LN Khatri. Opening hours are
variable, but if it’s closed, you should find Mr
Khatri at his shop, Desert Handicrafts Em-
porium, nearby on Court Rd.T ̈Tours
The Tourist Reception Centre runs a handful
of tours, including sunset tours to the Sam
sand dunes (₹200 per person, minimum
four people). Add ₹100 if you’d like a short
camel ride too.4 ̈Sleeping
Staying in the fort is the most atmospheric
and romantic choice, but be aware of the
pressure tourism is exerting on the fort’s
infrastructure. Outside the fort, the lanes
to the north are more atmospheric than the
recently renovated lanes west of Shiv Rd, or
the wider, more exposed roads south of the
fort. You’ll get massive discounts between
April and August, when Jaisalmer is hell-
ishly hot.4 Outside the Fort
Residency ̈Centre ̈Point ̈ GUESTHOUSE $
(%252883, 9414760421; residency_guesthouse@
yahoo.com; Kumbhara Para; r ₹450; i) Near to
Patwa-ki-Haveli, this friendly, family-run
guesthouse has five clean, spacious doubles
in a lovely 250-year-old building. Rooms
vary in size – budget in price but midrange
in quality. The rooftop restaurant has superb
fort views and offers home-cooked food.