Rajasthan
WESTERN
R AJASTHAN
Rajasthan
Sl EEP iNG
Rajasthan
JA iSA lMER
range rooms as well as plenty of budget op-
tions, including separate dorms for men and
women in the basement. Wi-fi only extends
to some rooms and although it does have a
pool, it is tiny.
Dylan ̈Cafe ̈& ̈Guesthouse ̈ GUESTHOUSE $
(%9828561818; [email protected];
r ₹200-350; iW) Dirt cheap digs for young
backpackers who like to chillout or party
or both. Rooms are acceptable, but most of
your time will be spent drinking and smok-
ing with the young owners on the rooptop.
Free wi-fi. Fresh coffee.Desert ̈Moon ̈ GUESTHOUSE $$
(%250116, 9414149350; http://www.desertmoonguest-
house.com; Achalvansi Colony; s ₹500-800, d
₹800-1200; aiW) Run by Lois (a New
Zealander who’s been living in Jaisalmer
for more than 12 years) and her Rajasthani
husband, Chanesar, this smart guesthouse,What ̈to ̈Take
Women should consider wearing a sports bra, as a trotting camel is a bumpy ride. A wide-
brimmed hat (or Lawrence of Arabia turban), long trousers, long-sleeved shirt, insect
repellent, toilet paper (don’t forget to burn it after use), torch, sunscreen, water bottle
(with a strap) and some cash (tip the camel men, if nothing else) are also recommended. It
can get cold at night, so if you have a sleeping bag bring it along, even if you’re told
that lots of blankets will be supplied. During summer, rain is not unheard of, so come
prepared.Which ̈Safari?
̈ ̈Sahara ̈Travels (%252609; http://www.saharatravelsjaisalmer.com; Gopa Chowk) Now run by the
son of the late LN Bissa (aka Mr Desert), a real Jaisalmer character who sadly died in 2012,
this place is still very professional and transparent. Trips are to ‘nontouristy’ areas only.
Prices for an overnight trip (9am to 11am the next day): ₹1400 per person, all inclusive.
̈ ̈Trotters (%9828929974; http://www.trotterscamelsafarijaisalmer.com; h5.30am-7.30pm) Run
by ‘Del Boy’ – who else? – this company is also run transparently, with a clear price list in
the office showing everything on offer. Does trips to ‘nontouristy’ areas as well as cheaper
jaunts to Sam or Khuri. Prices for an overnight trip (8am to 10am the next day): ₹1100 to
₹1200 per person, all inclusive.
̈ ̈Thar ̈Desert ̈Tours (%255656; http://www.tharcamelsafarijaisalmer.com; Gandhi Chowk;
h8.30am-7.30pm) Located at Gandhi Chowk, this well-run operator charges ₹950 per
person per day, adjusting prices accordingly depending on trip times. They are slightly
pricier than Sahara or Trotters, but we also receive good feedback about them. Their
system is for customers to pay 80% up front. There are several other options, including
hotel-organised safaris. Note that recommendations here should not be a substitute for
doing your own research. Whichever agency you go for, insist that all rubbish is carried
back to Jaisalmer.In ̈the ̈Desert
Camping out at night, huddling around a tiny fire beneath the stars and listening to the
camel drivers’ songs, is magical.
There’s always a long lunch stop during the hottest part of the day. At resting points the
camels are unsaddled and hobbled; they’ll often have a roll in the sand before limping away
to browse on nearby shrubs, while the camel drivers brew chai or prepare food.
Take care of your possessions, particularly on the return journey. Any complaints you do
have should be reported, either to the Superintendent ̈of ̈Police (%252233), the Tourist
Reception Centre, or the intermittently staffed Tourist Assistance Force posts inside the
First Fort Gate and on the Gadi Sagar access road.
The camel drivers will expect a tip or gift at the end of the trip; don’t neglect to give
them one.