of the wild Mermaid
Parade (held on the
third Saturday in
June), a newer, more
upscale, slightly more
generic Luna Park (www.
lunaparknyc.com; Surf Ave
& 10th St; hlate Mar-Oct;
c), an aquarium and a
minor-league baseball
team. The Cyclone is its
most legendary ride: a
wooden roller-coasterthat reaches speeds of
60mph and makes near-
vertical drops.
The hot dog was
invented in Coney Island
in 1867, which means that
eating a frankfurter at
Nathan’s Famous (1310
Surf Ave cnr Stillwell Ave, Coney
Island; hot dog $4; hbreakfast,
lunch & dinner till late),
which has been around
since 1916, is practicallyobligatory. The hot dogs
are the real deal and
its clam bar is tops in
summer. If you’re around
in the winter, consider
taking a dip in the frigid
Atlantic Ocean with the
Coney Island Polar Bears
Club. It’s best known
for its New Year’s Day
Swim, when hundreds of
hungover New Yorkers
take the plunge.Start: 8 Southampton
On a long barrier island running parallel to Long Island, just off the southern shore,
are Fire Island’s 32 miles of virtually car-free white sand beaches, shrub-filled
forests and hiking trails as well as 15 hamlets and two villages. The Fire Island Pines
and Cherry Grove (both car-free) comprise a historic, gay bacchanalia that attracts
men and women in droves from New York City, while villages on the west end cater
to straight singles and families. At the western end of Fire Island, Robert Moses
State Park is the only spot accessible by car; check out the lighthouse here which
holds a small museum with a tiny section dedicated to nude sunbathing. If you want
to skip the scene altogether and just get back to nature, enjoy a hike through the
300-year-old Sunken Forest, where crazily twisted trees have been misshapen by
constant salt-spray and sea breezes. It’s ‘sunken’ because its 40 acres are below sea
level; it has its own ferry stop (called Sailor’s Haven).
There are limited places to stay, and booking in advance is strongly advised
(check http://www.fireisland.com for accommodations information). Madison Fire Island
(%597-6061; http://www.themadisonfi.com; The Pines; r $200-775; aWs), the first and only
boutique hotel here, rivals anything Manhattan has to offer in terms of amenities,
and also has killer views from a rooftop deck and a gorgeous pool. At the eastern
end of the island, the 1300-acre preserve of Otis Pike Fire Island Wilderness is a
protected oasis of sand dunes that includes beach camping at Watch Hill, though
mosquitoes can be fierce and reservations far in advance are a must.
Fire Island Ferries (%631-665-3600; http://www.fireislandferries.com; adult/child round-trip
$17/7.50) runs services to Fire Island beaches and the national seashore (May to
November); the terminals are close to LIRR stations at Bay Shore, Sayville and
Patchogue.
To reach Fire Island from Southampton, head west on NY-27 (aka the Sunrise
Hwy) for 46 miles until exit 44 for Bay Shore. Take Brentwood Rd a mile south, turn
right onto E Main St and after close to another mile make a left onto Maple Ave. The
ferry terminal is on your left about a half mile further on.FIRE ISLAND
DETOUR:
NEW.YORK.TRIPS2
(^) LONG ISLAND