The Food Lab: Better Home Cooking Through Science

(Nandana) #1

Woks are made in three ways:



  • Traditional hand-hammered woks (like the ones they
    used to sell in those infomercials in the 1980s) are an
    excellent choice. The slight indentations left by the
    hammering pattern allow you to push cooked food to the
    sides of the pan while adding ingredients to the center
    without them slipping back. And hand-hammered woks
    are inexpensive. The only problem is that it can be
    difficult (impossible?) to find one with a flat bottom and a
    handle (more on that later).

  • Stamped woks are made by cutting out a circular piece of
    thin carbon steel and pressing it by machine into a mold.
    They are extremely cheap, but they are completely
    smooth, making it difficult to stir-fry properly. And they
    are, without fail, made from low-gauge steel and prone to
    developing hot and cold spots, as well as seeming flimsy.

  • Spun woks are produced on a lathe, giving them a distinct
    pattern of concentric circles. This pattern offers the same
    advantages as a hand-hammered wok, allowing you to
    easily keep food in place against the sides of the pan.
    Spun woks can be found in heavy gauges, with flat
    bottoms, and with flip-friendly handles. They are
    inexpensive.


Shape and Handles
Traditional woks have a deep bowl shape, designed to fit
into a circular opening directly over the hearth. Unless you
have a custom wok insert in your range (and if you do, you
probably aren’t reading this), you want to avoid round-

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