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the dhammachakka mudra (wheel-turning
pose) and a huge neon sign.
Dambulla Museum MUSEUM
(adult/child rs 250/130; h7.30am-4.30pm)
Re-creations of art from the cave temples,
artefacts and detailed English-language
explanations are presented in a large build-
ing some 500m south of the main caves’ park-
ing area. The displays are a good primer on
Sri Lankan art – from cave paintings to 18th-
century frescoes. Staff are keen to show you
around.
Dambulla Produce Market MArKEt
(Matale rd; hnoon-3am) Even if you’re not look-
ing to buy a truckload of bananas, this vast
wholesale market south of the centre offers a
fascinating look at the vast range of produce
grown in Sri Lanka. What you see being cart-
ed about with manic energy (be careful and
stay out of everybody’s way) will be sold in
Colombo tomorrow.
4 leeping & EatingS
Trucks on Highway A9, which cuts through
the heart of Dambulla, thunder across town
night and day, so bear this in mind when
choosing a room. Guesthouses tend to be near
the cave temples, while many tour-group-
geared hotels are north of town. Some of the
best places are way out in the lush country-
side by the Kandalama lake.
Nature Tourist Inn GUES tHoUSE $
(%077 912 0855; [email protected];
Kandy rd; d/tr incl breakfast rs 1600/1950; W) A
sound little guesthouse managed with love
and attention by Thomz and his family, who
dote on their guests and can provide good lo-
cal information and help out with transport.
All three simple rooms have private hot-water
bathrooms, mosquito nets and fans. Yes, it’s
close to the road, but the cave temples are on
your doorstep.
Healey Tourist Inn H oMEStAY $
(%228 4940; 172 Kandy rd; s/d rs 1200/1600; W)
This family-run place, within walking dis-
tance of the caves and bus station, has five
basic, clean-if-Spartan rooms that have mos-
quito nets and a piece of furniture or two.
You’ll find common areas for chilling and the
owners are helpful and welcoming.
Sundaras GUES tHoUSE $$
(%072 708 6000; http://www.sundaras.com; 189 Kandy
rd; dm US$15-20, r US$30-60, deluxe US$70-115;
aiW) This smart, modern converted vil-
la offers comfort and space and is within a
short stroll of the caves and museum. Staff
are attentive and the rooms are kept clean
and well-presented, the best sharing a terrace
which overlooks a slim garden. Two ‘deluxe’
dorms (one is a four-bed female-only option)
have recently been added, embracing the
backpacker market.
It’s a good place, but perhaps not the best
value, as prices are a tad steep across the
board. All rates include breakfast.
Dambulla Heritage Resthouse HotEl $$
(%228 4799; http://ceylonhotelscorporation.
com; Kandy rd; s/d/tr US$64/70/82; aW) This
former government rest house has been given
the full Heritage treatment, and now boasts
very classy interiors – the dark-wood furni-
ture and elegant fabrics make more than a
nod to colonial times. There’s a great cafe-
restaurant too. But, and this is a considerable
but, it’s close to the dreaded highway and traf-
fic noise is omnipresent.
Arika Boutique Villa BoUtIQUE HotEl $$
(%493 5045; http://www.arikavillas.com; Puwakattawala
r oad; r from US$72; aWs) A small, hip hotel
with spacious, stylish rooms with a nice blend
of natural materials and a splash of contem-
porary art on the walls. It’s 12km south of
Dambulla, just off the Kandy Rd.
oKalundewa Retreat HotEl $$$
(%077 307 6341; http://www.kalundewaretreat.com; r from
US$144; aiWs) The attention to detail at
Kalundewa Retreat is impressive, with a stun-
ning range of accommodation units that fea-
ture polished-concrete floors, modern art and
stylish wooden furniture; some have lovely
arched roofs and private jacuzzis. The forest
setting, lake, paddy fields, birdsong and un-
disturbed natural environment adds up to a
wonderful experience.
Hiking, biking, birding (with a resident
ornithologist), bathing (in a spring-fed pool)
and kayaking on the lake can be arranged and
there’s lots of wildlife around the hotel (in-
cluding peacocks and monitor lizards). Ser-
vice and meals are excellent too, but note that
no alcohol is sold – guests can BYO though).
It’s 7km east of Dambulla.
oHeritance
Kandalama Hotel r ESort HotEl $$$
(%555 5000; http://www.heritancehotels.com; r from
US$166; aiWs) Designed by renowned
architect Geoffrey Bawa, this is one of Sri Lan-
ka’s signature hotels. The hotel emerges from
the forest like a lost city, its walls and roofs
covered in vines that allow it to blend into the
natural environment. Light floods into the