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face but most carvings have been moved into
a small museum within the temple.
Vessagiriya HIS torIC SItE
South of the Isurumuniya Vihara are exten-
sive remains of the Vessagiriya cave monas-
tery complex, which dates from much the
same time.
z^ estivals & EventsF
Unduvap Poya r ElIGIoUS
(hNov) Each November, thousands of pil-
grims flock to Anuradhapura for Unduvap
Poya, which marks the arrival of the sacred
bodhi tree from India, and there are impres-
sive ceremonies.
T^ To ur s
Most places to stay can arrange for licensed
guides if you’d like – useful if you want a deep
understanding of Anuradhapura and its rich
history. Rates start at about Rs 1500 for two
hours with you providing the transport.
One of the best local guides is Charitha
Jithendra Jith (%077 303 7835; charithjith@
yahoo.com).
4 Sleeping
Hotels and guesthouses are scattered around
town and many new places are opening in
the countryside around the city. The greatest
concentration of places is in the pleasant leafy
neighbourhood between Main St and the Nu-
wara Wewa tank.
Note that commission-seeking hotel touts
often board trains a few stations outside of
town and hassle visitors. Three-wheeler driv-
ers are equally pushy. Many places offer a free
pick-up from transport terminals.
oMilano Tourist Rest HotEl $
(%222 2364; http://www.milanotouristrest.com; 40/596
Jr Jaya Mawatha; r rs 1500-3500; aiW) An
excellent place to stay, Milano is a profession-
ally run place in an elegant late-1950s house,
with period furnishings and a touch of class
that belie the moderate prices. All rooms have
thick mattresses, fridges, satellite TV and
modern bathrooms. The restaurant is good
and there’s a lovely garden for al fresco dining.
Miano has expanded operations to a sec-
ond villa a short walk away, which offers the
same high standards.
French Garden Tourist Rest GUES tHoUSE $
(%222 3537; http://www.frenchgardenanuradhapura.com;
488/4 Maithnipala Senanayake Mawatha; r rs 1500-
2500; aW) Close to the New Bus Station,
this two-storey guesthouse is well set up for
travellers. Its seven rooms are clean and have
mosquito nets; filling meals are served and
the efficient team in charge are on-the-money.
Andorra Tourist Rest GUES tHoUSE $
(%071 406 6932; 10/2/ l Nuwarawewa watte; r with
fan/air-con 1000/1500; aW) New in 2014, this
neat little, cheap guesthouse enjoys a near-
rural location with many peacocks seen in the
mornings (and fireflies at night). Rooms are
smart and modern, very clean and have TVs;
one has a balcony with rice-paddy views. It’s
about 3km east of the ruins.
oLakeside at Nuwarawewa HotEl $$
(%222 3265; http://www.lakeside-at-nuwarawewa-
anuradhapura-sri-lanka.en.ww.lk; Dhamapala Mawa-
tha; s/d/tr US$70/80/90; aiWs) Renovated
from top to tail, this hip modernist hotel, built
in 1957, has a sublime, utterly beguiling loca-
tion on the banks of the lovely Nuwara Wewa
tank. All rooms are immaculately presented
and have a balcony or verandah (7 to 18 have
tank views). It’s great value, and the restau-
rant is excellent too.
Gamodh Citadel Resort HotEl $$
(%492 8906; http://www.gamodhcitadelresort.com; lolu-
gaswewa, Elayapaththuwa; r rs 5000-8000; aWs)
A terrific rural hotel, offering rooms with very
high comfort levels in the two new blocks
and comfortable-enough (if smallish) rooms
in the old one. The landscaped grounds are
wonderful, with tables dotted around a lawn
that stetches down to a generously sized pool,
and meals are very flavourful. It’s 2.5km west
of the Tissa Wewa tank.
London Palace GUES tHoUSE $$
(%223 5070; http://www.londonpalacesl.com; 119/29r
Malagas Jen; r rs 3500-6000; aiW) Impres-
sive new two-storey place (‘palace’ is a little
ambitious!) with ten lovely, clean, bright and
airy rooms with high-quality furnishings, TV,
minibar, neutral-colour schemes and balcony
(except the single). The location is a little way
from the centre, but bikes are available (Rs
400). It’s owned by the efficient people behind
Milano Tourist Rest.
Hotel Randiya HotEl $$
(%222 2868; http://www.hotelrandiya.com; 19A/394
Muditha Mawatha; r incl breakfast rs 4500-6250;
aiW) This hotel looks good from the
outside, with its walawwa (minor palace)
style architecture. Inside, rooms are well-
maintained but showing their age now.
Still, staff are sweet and there’s a great