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Locals, as well as some travelling surfers,
tend to overhype Arugam Bay as a world-
class spot, which is slightly fanciful, to say
the least. However, it consistently produc-
es long and fairly fat slow-breaking waves
that are ideal for intermediate surfers. Surf
averages 1m to 1.5m, with a few rare 2m
days. On small days it can be very shallow
and sectiony while at any size there can
be lots of boils and bumps to deal with.
In season it can get dangerously busy, and
learners should stick to the gentle beach
break further inside the point, also known
as Baby Point.
There are many more breaks of similar
quality, most of which need a decent-size
swell. To the north, these include Pottuvil
Point, which is a slow right-hander, ideal
for learners (it tends to be better later in
the season), Whiskey Point and Light-
house Point, which are both also good
for beginners. To the south is Crocodile
Rock, Elephant Rock and Peanut Farm –
the latter has two breaks (one of which is
advanced) – Panama, which gets bad re-
views, and Okanda, which is rumoured to
be the best of the lot.
Several surf shops rent out boards, give
lessons and do camping trips to some of the
further points. Surf camp tours allow you to
start surfing first thing in the morning, and
you don’t have to worry about food or trans-
port, but some surfers find it’s just as easy,
and cheaper, to make their own way.
A-Bay Surf Shop sUrFiNg
(bodyboards & surfboards per day from rs 600,
lessons per hr rs 3000; h8am-8pm) A good se-
lection of old boards suitable for learners,
plus expert ding-repair service, wax and
sunscreen.
Aloha sUrFiNg
(%224 8379; http://www.aloha-arugambay.com; short/
long boards per day rs 1000/1300, lessons per hr
rs 2500; h6am-7pm) This guesthouse and
surf school has newish boards and will hold
beginners’ hands to get them started. Sells
fins, wax and leashes.
Safa Surf School sUrFiNg
(%077 955 2268; http://www.safaarugambay.com; short
& long boards/body boards per day €5.50/3, les-
sons from €32) Well-organised surf shop run
by local surfer Fawas Lafeer, offering lessons
from native instructors, good quality board
hire and repairs.
Surf N Sun sUrF shoP
(%224 8600; http://www.thesurfnsun.com; short/long
boards per day rs 800/1000) The savvy own-
ers here organise excursions to surf spots
around A-Bay. However, the hire boards
aren’t ideal for learners.
Swimming
Seas are rough but OK for swimmin. How-
ever, alsways ask locals before plunging in
at lesser-known beaches, where rips might
be strong. There’s safe swimming in shallow
water at the southern end of Arugam Bay,
where the beach bends around towards the
point. However, this is essentially a fishing
beach so not ideal for lounging on.
Nature-Watching
Mangrove tours on Pottuvil Lagoon, just
north of the bay, are superb and should not
be missed. They are best organised direct-
ly via the boatmen. Tours to Kumana Na-
tional Park, home to leopards, elephants,
wild buffalo, crocodiles and outstanding
birdlife can be set up by many guesthouses
and hotels.
There’s a good chance of seeing crocodiles
and elephants around Crocodile Rock on
Pasarichenai Beach, just south of Arugam
Bay. For birdwatching Pottuvil Lagoon and
the ponds and lagoons between Arugam Bay
and Panama are prime areas, and home to
waterfowl and waders.
4 Sleeping
All the following hotels and guesthouses are
on the beach or nearby. Many places have
a kind-of homespun charm and remain
family-owned. The term ‘cabana’ refers to
anything from ultra basic plank or cadjan
(coconut-frond matting) huts to luxurious
full-facility bungalows. Low-season dis-
counts of 20% to 35% are common.
Beach Hut CABANA $
(%224 8202, 077 160 6203; http://www.arugambay
beachhut.com; huts from rs 600, cabanas rs
1000-1500; W) A quirky, locally-owned
beachside place with loads of atmosphere
and a loyal clientele of backpackers and
surfers. There’s a choice of digs (all built
from timber, bamboo and thatch) includ-
ing treehouse-style cabanas and A-frame
huts – most are only steps from the ocean.
The restaurant to the rear has a large ta-
ble for socialising, a shady terrace and
good-value meals (Rs 400 to 700).