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ghuge menu. Rottis, such as the crab number,
win raves.
Boulevard FOOD COURT $
(Map p64; Odel, 5 Alexandra Pl, Col 7; meals Rs
200-600; h10am-8pm) Fronting the entrance
to the popular and chic Odel department
store is this silver-hued swath of food stalls
in a sleek outdoor food court. Outlets of well-
known local vendors serve up sandwiches,
Indian fare, health food, pizza, various snacks
and gelato. Fans keep things breezy and cool.
Good Market MARKET $
(Map p64; http://www.goodmarket.lk; Phillip gunawarde-
na Mawatha, Colombo Racecourse, Col 7; h10am-
6pm Sat) Definitely not a bad market, this
organic and artisan food market is held in
the northeast parking lot of the Colombo
Racecourse and is quickly attracting a range
of high-quality vendors. Breads, prepared
foods, organic fruit and veg, smoothies,
snacks and much more are on offer.
Milk & Honey Cafe VEgETARiAN $$
(Map p64; %269 6286; 12 Barnes Pl, Col 7; meals Rs
300-500; h9am-6pm Mon-Sat) Eating vegetar-
ian never tasted so good; in a simple house
shared with a kids’ bookstore and Kemara
spa, this groovy little cafe has an ever-chang-
ing menu of fresh fare such as slow-roasted
veggies with pesto and a scrumptious mush-
room and cream cheese focaccia. Enjoy one
of many fresh juices outside in the garden.
Commons BiSTRO $$
(Map p64; %269 4435; 39A Sir Ernest de Silva
Mawatha, Col 7; meals Rs 400-600; h7.30am-
midnight; aW) This cafe has a strong
following among Colombo’s iPad-wielding
set (who may well hail from the Russian
embassy across the road). Customers lounge
in soft seats around low tables and enjoy
popular breakfasts, rotti, excellent burgers,
pastas, desserts and more. The garden at
the back is a shady urban retreat. Now if
management would stop blocking the doors
with their cars!Coco Veranda Cafe CAFE $$
(Map p64; http://www.cocoveranda.com; 32 Ward Pl, Col 7;
meals Rs 500-1000; h8am-midnight; aW) In a
small building with designer clothing shops,
this cool little cafe has an extraordinarily
long menu of teas, coffee drinks, frappes
and fresh juices. There are sandwiches and
pasta as well as very alluring desserts like
the chocolate cake. This is a good late-night
stop for a snack.Paradise Road Cafe CAFE, DEli $$
(Map p64; %011 268 6043; 213 Dharmapala
Mawatha, Col 7; meals Rs 250-500; h10am-7pm;
a) Part of the designer empire, this smart
cafe serves coffee drinks, milkshakes, lus-
cious cakes and a plethora of teas. Mains
include sandwiches and pasta. Get upscale
picnic fare from the deli and enjoy it in Viha-
ramahadevi Park.5 Wellawatta
Local favourites dominate the options of
this southern quarter, which has Galle Rd
as its spine. Look for a dose of hip over on
Stratford Ave in Pamankade.oBombay Sweet Mahal CANDY $
(Map p68; 195 galle Rd, Col 6; treats from Rs 50;
h9am-7pm) Galle Rd boasts many vendorsHOTEL DE PILAWOOS
Just known as Pilawoos (Map p64; 417 galle Rd; meals Rs 200-400; h24hr), this
open-fronted purveyor of short eats is renowned for what may be the best kotthu in
town. Starchy, savoury and very addictive, this purely Sri Lankan dish starts with rottis
(preferably day-old), which are then rather dramatically sliced up along with vegetables,
meats or some such combination thereof. The results are cooked on a very hot iron
sheet and served steaming.
Possibly invented here, although no one is sure, cheese kotthu are rapidly becoming
the most popular version. Expect the mighty and the humble to drop by anytime to grab
one, often with a fresh juice. In the wee hours, many customers are clearly looking for
absorbent fare, of which kotthu is ideally suited; in the morning, you’ll see bleary eyed
customers looking for the restorative magic for which kotthu is known.
Note that this is the true and original Pilawoos. As is often the case in Sri Lanka, their
success has inspired dozens of competitors to adopt some version of their name; ersatz
Pilawoos abound.