Rajasthan
SOUTHERN
R AJASTHAN
Rajasthan
Sl EEP iNG
Rajasthan
UDA iPUR
Poonam ̈Haveli ̈ HOTEl $$
(%2410303; http://www.hotelpoonamhaveli.com; 39 lal
Ghat; r ₹800-1800; aiW) A fairly modern
place decked out in traditional style, friend-
ly Poonam has 16 spacious, spotlessly clean
rooms with big beds and spare but tasteful
decor, plus pleasant sitting areas. None of
the rooms enjoys lake views, but the rooftop
restaurant does, and boasts ‘real Italian’ piz-
zas among the usual Indian and traveller
fare. The ground-floor cafe Bon ̈Appetite
(h8am-10pm) does filter coffee (from ₹60)
and cakes. Wi-fi throughout.
oJagat ̈Niwas
Palace ̈Hotel ̈ HER iTAGE HOTEl $$$
(%2420133; http://www.jagatniwaspalace.com; 23-25
lal Ghat; non-lake facing ₹1850-2950, lake facing
₹3250-4250 ; aiW) This leading Lal Ghat
hotel set in two converted lakeside havelis
takes the location cake. The lake-view rooms
are charming, with carved wooden furni-
ture, cushioned window seats and pretty
prints. Non-lake-facing rooms are almost as
comfortable and attractive, and considera-
bly cheaper. The building is full of character
with lots of attractive sitting areas, terraces
and courtyards, and it makes the most of its
position with a picture-perfect rooftop res-
taurant. Wi-fi in lobby only.
Kankarwa ̈Haveli ̈ HER iTAGE HOTEl $$$
(%2411457; http://www.kankarwahaveli.com; 26 lal Ghat;
r incl breakfast ₹3000-5000; aiW) This is one
of Udaipur’s few hotels that is a genuine old
haveli. It’s right by the lake, and the white-
washed rooms, set around a courtyard, have
a lovely simplicity with splashes of colour.
They are very small for the price, but have
bags of character and the pricier ones look
right onto Lake Pichola. Wi-fi in ground-
floor courtyard only.
Jaiwana ̈Haveli ̈ HOTEl $$$
(%2411103; http://www.jaiwanahaveli.com; 14 lal Ghat;
s/d ₹1690/2250; aiW) Professionally run
by two helpful, efficient brothers, this smart
hotel has spotless, unfussy rooms with good
beds, some decorated with attractive block-
printed fabrics. Book corner room 11, 21 or
31 for views. Wi-fi throughout.
4 Hanuman Ghat Area
oDream ̈Heaven ̈ GUESTHOUSE $
(%2431038; http://www.dreamheaven.co.in; r ₹200-1000;
aiW) The best-value digs in Udaipur,
Dream Heaven has a fabulous location (the
views from the rooftop restaurant are sub-
lime), simple but well-looked-after rooms
and a friendly manager who is very helpful
without being too keen to please. Deserv-
edly popular. Wi-fi only on rooftop and up-
per rooms.Karohi ̈Haveli ̈ HER iTAGE HOTEl $$$
(%2430026; http://www.karohihaveli.com; r from ₹3500;
aiWs) A beautifully renovated, three-
storey 19th-century haveli with tastefully-
decorated rooms off a cool central marble
courtyard. Quiet but welcoming. Has a
rooftop restaurant, bar, garden lawn with
lake views, lovely pool (nonguests ₹200) and
wi-fi throughout.Amet ̈Haveli ̈ HER iTAGE HOTEl $$$
(%2431085; http://www.amethaveliudaipur.com; s/d
₹4800/5700; aiW) This 350-year-old herit-
age building on the lake shore has delight-
ful rooms with cushioned window seats and
coloured glass with little shutters. They’re
set around a pretty little courtyard and
pond. Splurge on one with a balcony or gi-
ant bathtub. One of Udaipur’s most roman-
tic restaurants, Ambrai, is part of the hotel.
A swimming pool was under construction at
the time of research.4 City Palace Area
Kumbha ̈Palace ̈ GUESTHOUSE $$
(%2422702, 9828059505; http://www.hotelkumbhapal-
ace.com; 104 Bhattiyani Chotta; s/d ₹500/550, with
AC ₹900; aiW) This wonderfully peaceful
place, tucked up a quiet alley off Bhattiyani
Chotta, is run by the same couple behind the
excellent horse-riding company at Krishna
Ranch. This property overlooks a lush lawn
which is shaded by a section of the huge City
Palace wall and is a lovely place to relax. The
10 rooms are simple but comfortable (just
one has air-con), and the restaurant knows
how to satisfy homesick travellers. Wi-fi
throughout.oTaj ̈Lake ̈Palace ̈ HER iTAGE HOTEl $$$
(%2428800; http://www.tajhotels.com; r from ₹40,000;
aiWs) The icon of Udaipur, this roman-
tic white-marble palace seemingly floating
on the lake is extraordinary, with open-air
courtyards, lotus ponds and a small, mango-
tree-shaded pool. Rooms are hung with
breezy silks and filled with carved furniture.
Service is superb. Access is by boat from the
hotel’s own jetty in the City Palace gardens.
Rates can vary a lot with season and de-
mand: check the website.