CAMP SITEHOSTELHOTELINNCamping Azilane €
( 0539 98 69 79; Hay Ouatman; camping per adult Dh25, plus per tent/car/campervan
Dh20/20/35, electricity Dh15; ) A shady setting with great views makes this site popular,
even if it is a stiff 20-minute walk from the medina. There’s a small restaurant and a shop that
sells some essentials, but otherwise facilities are pretty basic (hot showers Dh10).
Chaouen Youth Hostel €
( 0666 90 84 42; Hay Ouatman; per person incl breakfast Dh40, per person in groups
Dh30) Next to the camp site, this hostel is bright and clean. Hot showers cost Dh20, and
there’s a washing machine. In season, you must produce a membership card.
Atlas Chaouen €€€
( 0539 98 60 02; www.hotelsatlas.com; s/d/tr incl breakfast Dh612/774/1161; )
Unmistakeably perched on the hills overlooking the town, this hotel doubles as a decent art
museum, with some fantastic works by local artist Zaidi Mohammed, including a wall-length
painting of the medina. All the amenities of a European four-star are present, including a huge
lobby, a full-service spa, a pool with gorgeous mountain views, the only nightclub in the area, an
average restaurant and a bar. Nonguests can use the pool (adult/child Dh100/70).
Auberge Dardara €€
( 0539 70 70 07, 0661 15 05 03; www.dardara.ma; Rte Nationale 2; d/tr/q incl half-board
Dh790/1200/1500; ) This is an authentic French auberge in the Moroccan countryside
offering large rustic suites with TVs and fireplaces. The 10-hectare complex includes an active
farm and gardens, pool, craft shop, hammam, fitness centre, horses and the most
sophisticated kitchen in the Chefchaouen area. Guest programs include crafts, gardening and
more. It’s a 10-minute taxi ride (Dh5) to Bab Taza.
CLIMBING JEBEL EL-KELAÂ
Looming over Chefchaouen at 1616m, Jebel el-Kelaâ might initially appear a daunting peak, but with an early start and a
packed lunch, it can easily be climbed in a day if you’re in reasonably good shape.
The hike starts from behind Camping Azilane, following the 4WD track that takes you to the hamlet of Aïn Tissimlane. Rocks
painted with a yellow and white stripe indicate that you’re on the right path. The initial hour is relatively steep as you climb
above the trees to get your first views over Chefchaouen, before cutting into the mountains along the steady piste . You should
reach Aïn Tissimlane within a couple of hours of setting out, after which the path climbs and zigzags steeply through great
boulders for nearly an hour to a pass. Turn west along the track, which leads to the saddle of the mountain, from where you
can make the final push to the summit. There’s a rough path, although you’ll need to scramble in places. The peak is attained
relatively quickly, and your exertions are rewarded with the most sublime views over this part of the Rif.
It’s straightforward and quick to descend by the same route. Alternatively, you can head north from the saddle on a path that
takes you to a cluster of villages on the other side of the mountain. One of these villages, El-Kelaâ, has 16th-century grain
stores and a mosque with a leaning minaret. From here, a number of simple tracks will take you back to Chefchaouen in a
couple of hours.