RIADGUESTHOUSEMoulay Ismail also considered himself a lover. Although he sought (but failed to receive) the hand in marriage of Louis XIV of
France’s daughter, he still fathered literally hundreds of children. Rather foolishly, however, he did nothing to secure his
succession. When he died the sultanate was rocked by a series of internecine power struggles, from which the Alawites never
fully recovered.
Nevertheless, his legacy was to be the foundation of modern Morocco. He liberated Tangier from the British, subdued the
Berber tribes and relieved the Spanish of much of their Moroccan territory. Moulay Ismail sowed the seeds of the current
monarchy and beneath his strong-arm rule the coherent entity of modern Morocco was first glimpsed.Tours
Compared to Fez and Marrakesh, the Meknès medina is fairly easy to navigate. If you are
short of time, or if you wish to gain some local insight, book an official guide through the tourist
office for Dh250 for a day. Calèche rides of this imperial city with a guide are easy to pick up
around the Mausoleum of Moulay Ismail – expect to pay around Dh150 for a couple of hours.
Festivals & Events
One of the largest moussems in Morocco takes place on the eve of Moulid (around February
during the lifetime of this edition of the guidebook) at the Mausoleum of Sidi ben Aïssa, outside
the medina walls. Members of this Sufi brotherhood are renowned for trances that make them
impervious to pain, but public displays of glass-eating, snake bites and ritual body piercing are
no longer allowed (though you’ll see pictures about town). It’s a busy and popular festival with
fantasias (musket-firing cavalry charges), fairs and the usual singing and dancing.
Sleeping
Most accommodation is located in the ville nouvelle, with the exception of a cluster of
ultrabudget options and a few exquisite new riads.
MEDINA
Most of Meknès’ cheapies cluster along Rue Dar Smen and Rue Rouamzine in the old city. In
the high season and during festivals, they can fill up quickly. To be on the safe side, get here
early in the day or reserve a room.
Ryad Bahia €€
Offline map Google map ( 0535 55 45 41; www.ryad-bahia.com; Derb Sekkaya,
Tiberbarine; r incl breakfast Dh670, ste Dh950-1200; ) This charming little riad is just a
stone’s throw from Place el-Hedim. It’s been in the same family since an ancestor came to
work as a judge for Moulay Ismail in the 17th century, so you can even sleep in the room where
the current owner was born, or the new Aladdin’s Cave–like roof-terrace room. The main
entrance opens onto a courtyard (also hosting a great restaurant), and the whole place has an
open and airy layout compared to many riads. Rooms are pretty and carefully restored, and the
owners (keen travellers themselves) are eager to swap travel stories as well as guide guests in
the medina.
Riad Safir €€
Offline map Google map ( 0535 53 47 85; www.riadsafir.com; 1 Derb Lalla Alamia; r