October and even then only by 4WD. It’s heaven for mountain bikers, as well as ideal hiking
country. Complexe Touristique Timnay Inter-Cultures and Safari Atlas in Midelt will rent you a
4WD (with driver) for around Dh1000 – good value if there’s a group of you.
CIRQUE JAFFAR
The Cirque Jaffar winds through the foothills of Jebel Ayachi, 25km southwest of Midelt. It’s a
rough piste , and regular cars will grumble on the route in all seasons but the height of summer.
The scenery is wonderful though – the dramatic crests of the Atlas, carpeted in places with
cedar forest, and studded with tiny Berber mountain villages.
From Midelt, take the Zaïdia road for about 10km and turn off at the signpost for the village
of Aït Oum Gam. Then follow the signs to Matkan Tounfit. After that the route loops back
through Tattiouine and on to Rte S3424 back to Midelt. Allow a day for the whole 80km circuit.
The Complexe Touristique Timnay Inter-Cultures offers this day trip for Dh350 per person
including meals.
If walking is more your thing, and you have a tent, it’s possible to strike out from Timnay to
the Cirque Jaffar on foot. A two-day round trip gives a good taste of the area. From Timnay
you can walk to the village of Sidi Amar, which is surrounded by apple orchards and is
particularly colourful during the souq each Wednesday. Camp further along at Jaffar, located in
the valley in the centre of the spectacular circle. On day two, return to the Timnay complex via
the impressive river gorges. A guide isn’t strictly necessary, but can be organised via the
Complexe Touristique Timnay Inter-Cultures. An equally good companion is the guidebook
Grand Atlas Traverse by Michael Peyron.
GORGES D’AOULI
An interesting road trip takes you 25km northeast of Midelt along the S317 road to the Gorges
d’Aouli. A series of cliffs carved by the Moulaya, they were until recently mined extensively for
lead, copper and silver. The abandoned workings can be clearly seen – many halfway up the
cliff face – although the mine entrances themselves are blocked off for safety reasons.
Nevertheless, the place exudes a slightly creepy ghost-town feel, especially with the dipping
sun at the end of the day. Further along the road, the small village of Aouli sits against the
spectacular backdrop of the river gorge. This is a great stretch to explore by mountain bike –
about two hours’ ride from Midelt, if you’re up to the gruelling uphill ride back; the road
deteriorates to rough piste at some points. A round trip by grand taxi from Midelt should cost no
more than Dh250.
THE EAST
Taza
At first glance, Taza seems to fulfil all the criteria of a sleepy provincial capital. The rush of
activity common in Moroccan towns of comparable size seems entirely absent here, while its
sprawling layout gives it a slightly abandoned air. But it makes an interesting break in a journey:
climb the crumbling fortifications of Taza Haute, and the panoramic views of the Rif to the north
and the Middle Atlas to the south are breathtaking. Taza also provides a handy base for
exploring the eastern Middle Atlas, including Gouffre du Friouato (one of the most incredible