On Food and Cooking

lactose, 20% protein and 20% butterfat.
Even without added sugar, khoa is almost a
candy, so it makes sense that over time, it
and the intermediate concentrations that
precede it became the basis for the most
widely made Indian milk sweets.
Doughnut-like fried gulabjamun and
fudge-like burfi are rich in lactose,
calcium, and protein: a glass of milk
distilled into a morsel.
A second, separate constellation of
Indian milk sweets is based on
concentrating the milk solids by curdling
them with heat and either lime juice or
sour whey. The drained curds form a soft,
moist mass known as chhanna, which then
becomes the base for a broad range of
sweets, notably porous, springy cakes
soaked in sweetened milk or syrup
(rasmalai, rasagollah).
Espresso Steamers: Simultaneous Bubbles
and Heat Milk foams are usually made with