On Food and Cooking

(Barry) #1

Pastry structures (uncooked doughs shown at
bottom; cooked pastries at top). The key to
pastry structure is the distribution of the fat,
here shown as a light layer surrounding
darker masses of dough. Left: In crumbly
pastries, fat coats and separates small
particles of dough. Center: In flaky pastries,
fat coats and separates flattened pieces of
dough. Right: In laminated pastries, fat coats
and separates extended, thin sheets of dough.
The sheets in laminated pastries are so light
that cooking steams them apart into a light,
airy structure.


Fats Much of the flavor of pastry — and
much of the pleasure — comes from its fat,
which may be a third or more of its weight.
But pastry makers often choose a fat that has

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