On Food and Cooking

(Barry) #1
both    heat    up  together,   and the cook    then
continues to heat the formed sauce until
it reaches the desired consistency. This is
the simplest method.
Don’t cook the yolks at all; just warm
them and the water-based ingredients
above the melting point of butter, then
whisk clarified butter in until the
crowding of droplets creates the desired
consistency. This is essentially a butter
mayonnaise, and eliminates the
possibility of overcooking the yolks.
Make the butter-sauce version of a
sabayon (p. 639). Whisk the egg yolks
and some water while heating them until
they form an airy foam, and then gently
incorporate melted or clarified butter and
the lemon juice or acid reduction. This
version is of course much lighter, and is
also made with less butter per yolk.

It’s possible to make hot egg sauces with

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