the whole water bath, since this forces the
water to the boil and makes it more likely that
the custards will be overcooked. The most
gentle heating results when the individual
molds are set covered on a rack in an open,
thin metal pan of hot water.
Custard doneness can be judged by
bumping the dish — the contents should move
only sluggishly — or by probing the interior
with a toothpick or knife, which should return
without any mix clinging to it. When the
proteins have coagulated enough that the mix
clings mostly to itself, the dish is done.
Unless the custard needs to be firm enough to
unmold, it’s best taken from the oven while
the center is still slightly underdone and
jiggly. The egg proteins continue to set
somewhat with the residual heat, and the
custard will in any case be firmer once cooled
to serving temperature.
“Ribboning” Yolks with Sugar