cooked on the stovetop. Then...When the cream is well cooked, put a
silver platter onto the hot stove with some
powdered sugar and a little water to
dissolve it; and when your sugar has
colored, pour the cream on top; turn the
sugar along the platter rim onto the top of
your cream, and serve at once.
— V. La Chapelle, Le Cuisinier
moderne, 1742
The most common problem with
cheesecakes is the development of
depressions and cracks in the surface, which
result when the mix expands and rises during
the cooking, then shrinks and falls as it cools
down. Rising is essential for soufflés and
sponge cakes, but it is antithetical to the dense
richness of cheesecake. Four basic strategies
will minimize it. First, beat the ingredients
slowly, gently, and only long enough to obtain
an even mix. Vigorous or long beating