On Food and Cooking

(Barry) #1

cooling, because their acidity and fibrous
particles can cause curdling during the
cooking.
Pastry Cream, Bouillie, and Cream-Pie
Fillings Along with crème anglaise, pastry
cream is one of the most versatile of the
dessert maker’s stock preparations. It’s used
mainly to fill and decorate cakes and pastries,
and is a common reinforcing base for sweet
soufflés; in Italy and France it’s even cut into
pieces and fried on its own. It must therefore
be thick enough to hold its shape at room
temperature, and so is stiffened with between
1 and 2 tablespoons flour (or about half that
amount of pure starch) per cup liquid/10–20
gm per 250 ml.
Pastry cream is made by adding scalded
milk to the mixture of sugar, eggs, and flour,
whose protective action allows the mix to be
brought to a full boil over direct heat without
curdling. After a minute or so of boiling (and
constant stirring) to thoroughly inactivate the

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