On Food and Cooking

in  a   pot on  a   fair    fire,   and throw   in  the

yolks,  and stir    it  well,   but let it  not boil,   till

it  be  thick;  and throw   in  sugar,  saffron,    and

salt,   mace,   gillyflowers    and galingale   [a

relative    of  ginger] ground  small,  and

powdered    cinnamon;   and when    you serve

it, sprinkle    with    powdered    ginger,

cinnamon,   and nutmeg.

—   Harleian    MS  279,    ca. 1425

Zabaglone
For four cups of Zabaglone get twelve
fresh egg yolks, three ounces of sugar, half
an ounce of good cinnamon and a beaker of
good sweet wine. Cook this until it is as
thick as a broth, then take it out and set it
on a plate in front of the boys. And if you
like you can add a bit of fresh butter.
— Cuoco Napoletano, ca. 1475, transl.
Terence Scully
From Zabaglione to Sabayon The recipe trail
for yolk foams is spotty. Zabaglione — from a