On Food and Cooking

(Barry) #1

The billfish are a family of large (to 13 ft/ 4 m
and 2,000 lb/900 kg), active predators of the
open oceans, with a spear-like projection from
their upper jaw and dense, meaty, nearly
boneless flesh that has been sought after for
thousands of years. The preeminent billfish is
the swordfish, whose Atlantic stock is thought
to be down to less than a tenth of its original
size and in need of protection. Swordfish have
a dense, meaty texture and keep unusually
well on ice, as long as three weeks.


Flatfish: Soles, Turbot,
Halibuts, Flounders


Flatfish are bottom-dwelling fish whose
bodies have been compressed from the sides
into a bottom-hugging shape. Most flatfish are
relatively sedentary, and therefore are only
modestly endowed with the enzyme systems
that generate energy for the fish and flavor for
us. Their mild flesh generally keeps well for

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