On Food and Cooking

(Barry) #1

immersing them in citrus juice or another
acidic liquid, usually with onion, chilli
peppers, and other seasonings. This period of
marination changes both the appearance and
texture of the fish: in a thin surface layer if it
lasts 15–45 minutes, throughout if it lasts a
few hours. The high acidity denatures and
coagulates the proteins in the muscle tissue,
so that the gel-like translucent tissue becomes
opaque and firm: but more delicately than it
does when heated, and with none of the flavor
changes caused by high temperatures.
Kinilaw is the indigenous Philippine
version of acid marination. Morsels of fish or
shellfish are dipped for only a few seconds
into an acidic liquid, often vinegar made from
the coconut, nipa palm, or sugarcane, to which
condiments have been added. In the case of
“jumping salad,” tiny shrimp or crabs are
sprinkled with salt, doused with lime juice,
and eaten alive and moving.


Salty Poke and Lomi

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