8.7 Two young Chakma women crossing a river on a ferry
boat, Rangamati, the Chittagong Hill Tracts, Bangladesh,
February 2000, with one wearing a Tommy Hilfiger tee-shirt.
With thanks to Polly Jones. 141
9.1 John Galliano for Christian Dior, Autumn-Winter 1998–
couture collection, shown at the Gare d’Austerlitz in Paris.
The audience was seated on sand-covered platforms decorated
like an oriental souk; the models arrived on a steam train
with a wall of orange paper at the front through which a
model dressed as the Princess Pochahontas burst as the train
pulled into the station. Photograph: Niall McInerney 145
9.2 Monumental figure of ‘la Parisienne’ on top of the Porte
Binet, the main entrance to the Paris International Exhibition
of 1900, made from polychrome plaster, with a robe designed
by the couturier Paquin. Sculptor: Maureau-Vauthier. From:
‘The Paris Exhibition 1990: An Illustrated Record of Its
Art, Architecture and Industries’, The Art Journal Office,
London, 1900. Photograph: Caroline Evans. 157
10.1 Marc Jacobs, Spring/Summer 1998. Copyright Niall
McInerney. 179
11.1 Scarlet chiffon gown by Sorelle Fontana, 1953. Source:
Fontana archive, Rome, n. 17/F 1953. Courtesy of Sorelle
Fontana, Alta Moda SRL. 189
11.2 Printed silk shirt by Emilio Pucci, mid-1950s. Source:
Courtesy of the Museum of Costume, Bath,
BATMCI.42.98. 194
11.3 Wool day coat by Sorelle Fontana, 1964. Source: Fontana
archive, Rome, n31./F. Courtesy of Sorelle Fontana, Alta
Moda SRL. 195
11.4 Boutique beachwear by Veneziani, Moro, Lilian and Rina.
Source: Linea Italiana, Summer 1949: 9. 197
11.5 MaxMara suit, 1956. Source: MaxMara archive Reggio
Emilia, photographic records. Courtesy of MaxMara SRL. 200
11.6 Four versions of ‘Base 11’, drawn by Gianni Iotti for
MaxMara in 1962. Source: MaxMara archive, Reggio
Emilia, photographic records. Courtesy of MaxMara SRL. 201
11.7 Gold metallic shift dress, Gucci, Spring/Summer 2000.
Source: Niall McInerney. 202
xiiList of Figures