and the soldering operation repeated until it does ring.
FINISHING THE BARREL
After the liner is cut off flush with each end of the barrel and fitted to the action, the extractor cut is made,
the liner is then chambered for the cartridge and the muzzle end is finished with a countersink equipped
with a pilot fitting the bore.
RIFLING THE LINER
After rifling the tube, the rifling cutter sets up a small burr along the edges of the grooves and these must
be removed by lapping. Insert a grooved lapping rod in the barrel after wrapping about two of the lower
grooves with string, the rod being inserted from the breech end of the barrel and stopped just a little
short of the muzzle.
LAPPING THE BARREL
In casting a lap in a relined barrel in which an unrifled tube has been inserted and later rifled, the barrel
cannot be heated as hot as the one-piece barrel, or the solder holding the tube in place will be melted,
therefore keep temperatures to not much over 250 degrees.
The barrel is held upright in a vise, muzzle-up, and in the case of a new barrel, is heated so that the lead
casts a full lap. If it is heated to just a light straw color, it will be sufficient and the heating is done only for
the length of the lap at the muzzle, about two inches. The melted lead is poured into the muzzle and is
just allowed to come flush with it. As soon as the lead cools, the lap is pushed out of the muzzle just a
short distance and examined to see that it is perfect. Any overflow at the muzzle is trimmed off with a
sharp knife. Be careful to not allow the lap to come entirely out of the barrel at any time until the lapping
work is finished.
Give the lap a coating of light oil and withdraw it to the breech end of the barrel, allowing it to extend
slightly from this end, so that the string may be removed and the lap coated with a fine grade of optical
emery. While the lap is at the rear end of the barrel, coat the barrel from the muzzle end with oil.