Schiaparelli
You know a designer has made it when the audience turns up
in the clothes — see Chanel and Dior, where devotees arrive
clad in signature berets and tweed suits. But when it’s your
first catwalk show after a lockdown hiatus, it’s all the more
impressive. Texas-born Daniel Roseberry has only been at
Schiaparelli since 2019, but a legion of fans were dressed
head to toe in his surrealist designs, from celebrities to
fashion editors toting the face-adorned bags and gold-toed
shoes. After a year of dominating celebrity dressing — think
Lady Gaga, Beyoncé and Adele — the most-hyped show of
couture didn’t disappoint. Thanks to a spell reading Dune,
Roseberry wanted to create “Planet Schiaparelli” — a black,
white and ecru collection with orbiting gold adornments.
A selection of neighbouring French designers — including
Olivier Rousteing of Balmain and Simon Porte Jacquemus
— even sat front row to cheer Roseberry on.
Jean Paul Gaultier
Belgian Glenn Martens, the creative director of Parisian fashion brand
Y/Project and overseeing the current Diesel rebrand, is unstoppableright now. He is the second guest designer to take up the seasonal
mantle at Jean Paul Gaultier (the first was Sacai’s Chitose Abe), and hisfirst foray in couture was a celebration of all things Gaultier — think
corsetry, the classic French marinière and JPG’s signature hourglassshape. And for the Instagram generation who follow Martens’s every
move? A corset-lace top with floor-sweeping denim — expect to seethe look on a Hadid sibling soon. Post-show, Monsieur Gaultier,
who officially retired from his haute couture label to bring on newdesigners each season, was flanked by fans old and new.
JEAN PAUL GAULTIERSCHIAPARELLISCHIAPARELLIThe Sunday Times Style • 23